5 Simple Steps To Make Your Own Oil Of Oregano

5 Simple Steps To Make Your Own Oil Of Oregano is republished from http://ift.tt/2A5Qi63

Image source: Pixabay

The ancient Romans and Greeks had a great appreciation for oregano, due largely to its many medicinal uses. Furthermore, the name “oregano” comes from the Greek words “ganos” and “oros,” which means joy and mountain. Therefore, oregano means “joy of the mountain!”

Oil of oregano has antioxidant, antiseptic, antimicrobial, antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory qualities, and is a carminative, which means it lessens gas formation in the stomach. Furthermore, it is also a cholagogue, enabling bile to be released more easily and aiding in the digestion of fats.

Extracting oil from oregano involves a distinct distillation process. However, there is an easy way to make your own homemade, oil of oregano. Here’s a simple recipe:

What You Will Need

• Oregano leaves, crushed or chopped
• Grape seed oil, olive oil or almond oil
• 2 sanitized jars with twist lids

What To Do

1. Boil water in a saucepan. Let it reach a rolling boil, and then turn off the flame.
2. Put your oregano leaves into a jar and then pour the oil of your choice over the leaves.
3. Place the jar into hot water and allow it sit for 5-10 minutes. This process heats up the oil and allows the oregano to release its natural oils.
4. Take the jar from the hot water and put it on a sunny windowsill for 1-2 weeks. Shake up the mixture every couple of days.
5. After it sits for 2 weeks, strain the oil from the leaves into a second, sanitized jar. Store the oil in a cool and dark place.

To preserve homemade oil of oregano, add a couple drops of grapefruit oil. (If you decide to not make your own homemade oil of oregano, then make sure to use a quality, therapeutic grade essential oil.)

Uses For Oil Of Oregano

1. Respiratory illnesses

Many European respiratory remedies contain oregano as an important ingredient. It is used both externally and internally to treat asthma, bronchitis, colds and the flu.

It reduces inflammation caused by allergens. It also acts as a mild sedative, lessening the body’s reaction to the allergens.

Simply massage oil of oregano onto your chest to help relieve these ailments.

2. Skin ailments

People who suffer from eczema, psoriasis, candidiasis and rosacea can benefit greatly from oil of oregano. Remember, however, that oregano is a natural warming oil, so blend it well with jojoba, coconut or olive carrier oils and make sure to test it on affected areas lightly at first.

3. Fungal infections

Because of its antifungal properties, it is good for treating any fungal infections such as athlete’s foot and nail fungus. Again, remember that it is a natural warming oil, so dilute it properly and test it first.

4. Menstrual pain

Oil of oregano has been conventionally used to relieve menstrual issues such as amenorrhea and painful periods known as dysmenorrhea. Because oregano is an emmenagogue, it inspires blood flow to the pelvic region and encourages uterine contractions, enabling easier menstrual flow.

Learn How To Make Powerful Herbal Medicines, Right in Your Kitchen!

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Drink ginger tea mixed with 2-3 drops of your homemade oil of oregano if you have scanty or painful periods. Furthermore, you can add several drops of oil of oregano to chamomile tea to intensify its effectiveness.

To gain relief from menstrual cramps, massage a blend of six drops of oil of oregano and a teaspoon of coconut oil onto the lower abdomen.

5. Cardiovascular diseases

The antioxidant properties of oil of oregano can possibly guard your blood vessels and heart from free radical harm.

6. Arthritis and muscle pain

Because of its anti-inflammatory properties and its natural warmth, it is a wonderful oil for relieving aches and pains due to inflammation.

Simply use your homemade oil of oregano or mix a therapeutic grade essential oil with a carrier oil and massage it onto the affected area.

7. Animal conditions

• Skin conditions and external parasites. You can apply the oil of oregano to areas where the pets have lost fur due to ringworm infections, mange or hotspots. Animals tolerate oil of oregano well when it’s used diluted with carrier oils. Blend a teaspoon of oil of oregano with a gallon of tepid water and use it as a rinse after bathing your dog. This will aid in flea and skin parasite control.
• Treat arthritis in dogs. You can try adding several drops of oil of oregano to cod liver oil or moist dog food to make it taste better for your dog. Be sure to only use a drop or Don’t give it to cats; they have a problem metabolizing it.
• Replace antibiotics for chickens. Antibiotics are traditionally blended with poultry feed to keep the chickens strong and healthy and to aid them in gaining weight faster. Moreover, many organic farmers have now rejected antibiotics and turned oil of oregano as a replacement.
• Get rid of intestinal worms in dogs. Adding oil of oregano to moist dog food or cod liver oil will help kill internal parasites. Be sure to only add a drop or two.

8. Natural insect repellent

Oil of oregano can be used to get rid of head lice. Furthermore, you can successfully control household pests with this pungent oil.

Place 25 drops each of oil of oregano and lemon essential oil in a spray bottle and fill it up with distilled water. Shake it well. Spray the blend on surfaces and wipe it dry. Furthermore, you can drop several drops of oil of oregano on cotton balls and place them inside drawers and cabinets.

Oil of oregano is also a welcomed addition to any garden. Insects and pests hate the aroma. Blend oil of oregano and water and spray it on the plants in your garden.

Do you know of other uses for oil of oregano? Share your tips in the section below:

This Article Was Originally Posted On offthegridnews.com Read the Original Article here

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Aging in Place – Making Your Home Livable for a Lifetime

The following post Aging in Place – Making Your Home Livable for a Lifetime is available on Total Survival

We built our home to be a “lifetime” house, serving our changing needs throughout our lives. We planned to have the option of aging in place. From children, to injured family, to possibly multiple families or live in relatives, we tried to cover likely scenarios. In this post we'll present our Aging in Place Design Checklist, and then highlight how to apply this checklist to different areas of the home.

Whether you are building new, remodeling or just thinking about what you might be looking for in a home or apartment, consider accessibility in your requirements. Wrought iron railings or marble counter tops might be trendy, but minor structural changes can make sure you are able to enjoy your home for many years to come with a similar investment.

Over the last 12+ years the extra lighting, open concept, wide hallways and doors, hard floors and other accessibility features have served us well. Laurie's mother visited and was surprised to be able to easily shower in the low clearance shower. Great Uncle Bill visited in a wheelchair and he could roll right in and out without hitting anything. Best of all, we didn't have to carry him up steps. When Grandma Jane visits she can roll in with a walker or walk without different flooring to trip on.

Aging in Place Design Checklist

Single Level Access

We strongly recommend that a home have a bathroom, kitchen, laundry and at least one bedroom on the main living floor. If this isn't possible, build for the option for stair lift or elevator in the future. See the section on Stairwells below for lift information. For an elevator, locate two closets one directly below the other, and keep the floor/ceiling between them clear of plumbing and electrical.

Doors

Use 36 inch wide doors throughout. Skip doors if you can, such as skipping doors on closets. (Doors often get in the way of wheel chairs and walkers.) Consider pocket doors to allow maximum clearance. Use lever door handles instead of door knobs. Handles are easier to operate if you or are in a wheel chair, or just have your hands full.

The main entry and garage entry should be 42″ wide if at all possible. We had to replace 10 to 20 year old appliances and the delivery guys were amazed at how easy it was to get the old fridge and stove out and the new ones in with the wider hallways and 42 inch exterior door.

Consider covered entries over all your exterior doors – a small porch or covered concrete pad. When you're juggling a walker, wheel chair or crutches, it's helpful to be at least partly out of the weather as you gain entry to the home.

Paint

Lighter colored paints improve lumen levels in the home. Brighter colors have also been shown to improve mood. A semigloss latex paint is a good option, because it is washable. Spills happen, more so at both ends of the age spectrum. It's easier to wipe down a wall than have to repaint.

The flooring should be a bit darker than the walls so there is a contrast between floor surfaces and trim/wall. The color contrast gives the visually impaired a key to where the wall and floor meet.

Lighting

Try to have 2 to 4 times as much lighting as you think you need. Extra lighting makes it easier to allow aging in place. Try to have daylighting (windows or sun tubes) in all living spaces if possible, to allow for natural light as well as ventilation on a nice day.

In addition to general lighting, we recommend extra task lighting, so you have light right where you need it. We also added toe kick lighting on a dimmer in the bathrooms and the kitchen, for use as a night light. LED lighting helps to reduce energy usage, keeping your electric bill down.

Hallways

Hallways should be 36 to 48″ wide. A hallway can be used for multiple purposes. It could be a library, closets, pantry or even laundry. Consider shelving the entire length of a hallway.

Support and Backing

When you add home medical equipment like safety rails or bed lifts, they need to be mounted in sturdy lumber. This is called “backing”. It's easy to add while your walls are open, but requires a lot more mess if you have to add it later. We used 2 x 6 and 2 x 8 chunks of lumber to create wide, solid screw surfaces. Even a 2 x 4 in the right spot will provide significant support.

Add backing in walls, especially in bathroom and stairwells, and additional ceiling supports in bedrooms for lifts over beds. If you're planning for a flat screen TV in an area, add backing there, too. Backing is easy to add when you are building, but not easy later, so add it anywhere you MIGHT need it.

Front Entrance

Consider adding a camera to the main entrance to allow communication with visitors (preferably a way to lock/unlock remotely also). Consider a system to remotely turn on exterior lights. The entry should have a line of sight out of the house, so you can see as people approach. The front door should be 40 to 42 inches wide to allow easy access for a wheelchair. (It's also great for getting furniture, appliances or Christmas trees in and out.)

Windows

Select energy-efficient windows that are easy to open and easy to clean. The windows should require little strength to close and lock. Crank handles are a good choice. Blinds and insulating curtains should have longer cords that can be reached from a wheelchair or be mechanically operated. Insulating blinds/curtains reduce heat loss in and out, and also reduce glare. Dark shades allow for a better nights sleep for young and old alike.

Flooring

Select non-slip hard flooring throughout your home, and ensure you have level surfaces at entrances. Wherever possible, all the floors should be level or “at grade” so there is no threshold or a low threshold at doorways. This is huge for those using walkers, and/or those who have trouble lifting their feet.

Cabinets

Cabinets should have white or light interiors. They should have loop or lever handles (not knobs), to avoid catching on clothing (or medical accessories like oxygen hoses). Protruding knobs are also more likely to catch a hip or elbow. Use pull out shelving where possible, to make it easier to access the items in the back of the cabinet.

Heating, Cooling and Ventilation (HVAC)

Consider radiant heating. As we age our circulation to extremities slows. Warm floors become more appealing to cold feet.

Good ventilation matters for a long term comfort in a home. Cool air in the summer and warm air in the winter are critical. Air filtration can reduce the impact of allergies for young and old alike. Make sure every room has ventilation – even consider ventilation in large closets and storage areas. Good filtration also cuts down on dust and reduces cleaning needs.

HVAC systems need to be just the right size. Over-sizing or under-sizing are both problems. Unless the system is just right, it can make the system less efficient and less effective. That level of comfort matters throughout our life. For more info see: Building Eco Home – ICF, HVAC, and Plumbing.

Electrical

Anyplace you might put devices to charge, you may want to put a bar USB charger. Also consider quad (4 gang) electrical outlet instead of 2 gang. Consider extra outlets, on separate circuits, in bedrooms. Place extra outlets near each location you might put a bed. You might need the outlets for medical equipment as we age, or in the shorter term for rechargeable devices and small electric appliances, monitors and computers.

Electrical outlets should be placed where you NEED them. Around the house 18 inches to 24 inches above the floor, or just above a counter or near a desk. Light switches should be 36 to 44 inches above the floor, and a lighted switch can act as a guide in the dark.

If you are in a single family dwelling, consider dual panel electrical. One panel for non essential items and a 2nd that could be fed by generator for critical services such as critical lighting, well pump, stove and other items.

The controls for ventilation in all our bathrooms are on a timer. The timer is useful so children or forgetful adults/seniors don't leave fans running.

Kitchen Design Notes

Be careful with your work triangle. Try to design for two work triangles if you can. Include variable height work surfaces. In the kitchen we have a lower butcher block that the kids used when they were little, and as adults we still use when we need to apply pressure, suck as hacking a large squash in half. The lower counter height could have a roll out storage unit under it. Rolling out the storage unit allows an open space beneath to let someone pull a chair up or even a wheelchair. It still provides storage. This can be done under the sink, too, to allow rolling access while preserving storage space.

All the cabinets have white interiors to simplify seeing what is in them. Many of the lower cabinets have pull out drawers and shelves. We also have a lazysusan corner recycling center and pull out garbage cans to keep the area free of tripping hazards. Finally, there is extra task lighting everywhere, and toe kick lighting for getting a drink at night.

We have old fashioned cork backed linoleum flooring. This is easy to clean up, and makes it slightly less likely for glass to break if it is dropped.

We recommend selecting easy to operate appliances. Many modern devices have far too many electronic controls. See “Spring Cleaning – 6 Steps to a Clean and Organized Kitchen” for general kitchen organization tips.

Bathroom Design Notes

Our bathrooms were built to be handicap accessible, but they don't look like a hospital. We added backing in the walls and used heavy metal grab bars as towel racks.

You should have a walk in shower on the main floor. Ideally it should have at most a 1.2 inch rounded edge and be ramped from the outside in. The small “ramp” avoids a big lip that would be a tripping hazard. The shower should drop about 1/8 inch per foot to a drain in the center (that way the slope is even on each side). You also need an adjustable-height, handheld showerhead/hose.

We have a Kohler FreeWill Barrier free wheelchair accessible shower (K-12102-C), which has been discontinued. None of our immediate family use a wheelchair at this time, but we all appreciate the large shower, with solid handles. We have had it for over 10 years and are very happy with it. The boys only splashed out of it a small amount when they were younger. The Kohler K-12111-C-0 Freewill is similar, but a little smaller, and has a fold down seat.

The unit is one piece, so there are no grout lines to clean. (Two piece units are a little less expensive, and only have one seam to clean.) We prefer fully enclosed showers, so you don't need to worry about water damage and peeling paint above. (Less maintenance is good.)

The basement tub is also a full deep tub with a complete surround and grab bars. Again we have been happy with this purchase also. The basement bathroom has grab bars also.

We have hand-held showers with single lever control, scald control faucets in both the shower and the tub. Hand held showers are extremely helpful for washing those with limited mobility.

Bedroom Design Notes

Our bedrooms all have hard floors and well lit closets. The “master” bedroom, has two closets and neither closet has a door. We tried to make it so the walk in closet had wide access for a wheel chair (just in case). Again, all the shelving is white.

We ensured good airflow with central air for cooling and fresh air and ceiling fans in each bedroom.

If you are remodeling or building new, consider wiring/design so that you could have individual room temperature and humidity controls. This could mean mini-duct or other special venting and more advanced thermostat and controls. Even with all of us healthy, we have different preferences for sleeping temperatures.

The main floor bedroom should have space for a king sized bed, if possible. That extra space would ensure enough room for an assisted mechanical bed.

Consider adding sound batting in walls. This is especially important if a bedroom or bedrooms are off the main living space. Sound insulation is fairly inexpensive but could make a bedroom more livable if there is activity all hours or someone is a light sleeper.

Stairwell Design Notes

Your stairwells should be 40″ to 46″ wide. This allows the addition of a chair lift, or two people walking side by side for support. Include backing on both sides to allow the addition of a chair lift. The backing also makes for more solid anchors for railings. Stairwells should be located where children or older adults would not easily fall down them. Again, consider backing in the area near the top of the steps to permit a gate or door to protect the stairs.

Have extra stair lighting with switch at top and bottom. Treads should be 10 to 11 inches and have nonslip surfaces. The rise should be 6.5 to 7 inch with no “nosing”. The tread should not have a lip, i.e., it should not extend out past the riser. No nosing reduces the risk of tripping.

Laundry Room Design Notes

Our laundry is also a 1/2 bath that has an upright freezer. The laundry room has linoleum flooring. extra storage over the front loading washer and dryer. Make sure that the location has the washer closest to the wash tub/sink. Another thing to confirm is left/right on the washer and dryer so that the front loaders match so you can easily move items from the washer to the dryer. Having a hanging bar directly over the sink allows you to drip dry laundry if needed.

Storage Design Notes

Get creative with storage. Recess cabinets into walls to use the stud wall gap (it gives about 4 inches deeper storage). Put shelves along hallways between studs. Consider defined storage under steps. Make closets run right to the ceiling for extra storage. Consider traditional tricks like wall “murphy” beds and pantries. The Japanese have fantastic ideas with entire movable walls with integrated storage. Storage is necessary throughout your life, and being able to easily find things is critical. Check out the post “Preparedness Storage – Keeping it Safe and Sound” for a wider variety of storage suggestions.

Garage Design Notes

Consider a at least a two stall garage with at grade entrance. That means the concrete in the garage is level with the internal floor levels. At least one parking stall should be larger to fit a large powered wheelchair accessible van. That space should have room near it to allow a wheelchair to turn around. Again, add extra outlets, and extra lighting. We upgraded to heavy duty hangers for tools, to avoid them dropping on children or older adults.

Outside Design Notes

When we think of aging in place or building a lifetime home, we need to focus on the interior. But we can't forget the exterior. Walkways around the home should be no slope and no slip surfaces.

There should be extra lighting where needed to allow easy navigation in the dark. There should be enough outside lighting to allow a person to walk completely around the home with full lighting. Pathways should be a different color than the surrounding landscaping and vegetation. Outside electrical outlets should be high enough to be visible and away from future debris.

Consider raised beds or container gardening for easier gardening access for aging adults.

Other Considerations

Focus on low or easy maintenance appliances, finishes, flooring and lighting. An LED light that you don't need to replace for 10 years is a lot less of a hassle for someone who has trouble on a ladder.

Find a good place for a fire extinguisher, and make sure you have one.

A trick for sliding doors is to drop it into the floor slightly. Aligning the top of the door threshold with the interior flooring and exterior deck/flooring. This avoids a tripping hazard. I really wish i had know about this as I have stubbed my toes on the threshold numerous times.

Consider eliminating carpet. Carpet is a tripping hazard and thick carpeting is very difficult to push a wheeled walker or wheelchair through. From an indoor air quality perspective, carpet is a source of VOCs. Carpets increase the amount of dust and allergens trapped within the home. There are many natural choices available, including linoleum, cork and bamboo, which are easier to walk on and provide some cushion in case of a fall.

Consider rounded corners on cabinets, doorways and other locations you could bump/run into. Many people bruise more easily and heal more slowly as they age.

If you have a fireplace or wood stove, consider protections to make them safe to touch. A double brick layer and shield on the metal/glass face can protect children and older adults from unwanted burns.

When we built, it was odd to find that as we added accessibility features, many turned out to improve Feng Shui – but that's another post.

Related Posts

Building an Eco Home – Brainstorming

Building an Eco Home – Floor plans

Best Ways to Keep Your House Warm – New Construction and Remodeling Tips

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This Article Was Originally Posted at commonsensehome.com Read The Original Article Here

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Cat Scratch Fever – What it is, How You Get It and How You Prevent It

The following post Cat Scratch Fever – What it is, How You Get It and How You Prevent It was originally seen on http://ift.tt/2A5Qi63

Cat scratch fever can be a very serious condition, causing scarring and even blindness. In this post we'll discuss how your cat can carry the disease (and may not show symptoms), how you can catch it, symptoms of catch scratch disease, complications, treatment and why you don't want to let kitty lick your face.

Since my cats didn't come with an owner's manual, I didn't realize that cat scratch fever was anything other than a 70's song – until I found out that my sister-in-law had a case of it that was so bad it required surgery. At first I thought she had gotten scratched by the cat. (After all, it's called cat “scratch” fever, right?) It turns out that there was no scratch involved – all she did was let the cat lick her face and neck. She ended up with a bad infection in her neck that led to complications and an operation with a noticeable scar. (She is now fine.)

In another recent case, Janese Walters from Toledo, Ohio went blind in her left eye from being licked by her cat. CBS News quotes:

“I woke up one day and I couldn't see out of my left eye,” said Walters. “I looked in the mirror and I thought I had pink eye or something.”

After a month of inconclusive tests, doctors traced back the source of the infection to Walters' cat and a common bacteria known as Bartonella henselae, which causes a condition called “cat scratch” disease.

We've always had barn cats and indoor/outdoor cats who are allowed and encouraged to hunt, plus we all know that kitties lick their backsides, so I've never been big on letting kitties lick me. Recently we added a new cat to our home who loves to lick, so I thought I'd do a little more research on exactly what the risk is. My conclusion – don't let your cat lick your face, and washing hands after kitty licks elsewhere is probably a good idea.

How could my cat get cat scratch fever?

Cat scratch fever (also known as catscratch fever or cat-scratch disease) is caused by a bacterium called Bartonella henselae.

The Center for Disease Control states:

About 40% of cats carry B. henselae at some time in their lives, although most cats with this infection show NO signs of illness. Kittens younger than 1 year are more likely to have B. henselae infection and to spread the germ to people. Kittens are also more likely to scratch and bite while they play and learn how to attack prey.

Cats can get infected with B. henselae from flea bites and flea dirt (droppings) getting into their wounds. By scratching and biting at the fleas, cats pick up the infected flea dirt under their nails and between their teeth. Cats can also become infected by fighting with other cats that are infected.

Generally speaking, if your cat goes outside, it will have a higher chance of carrying the disease. (There are some natural flea and tick prevention options on the market.) That said, just because it's an indoor cat doesn't automatically mean it's safe.

How do I catch cat scratch fever?

The bacteria is transferred through saliva, which enters the body through open wounds – preexisting or caused by cat bites or scratches. Cat scratch fever can also be transmitted if the saliva touches the whites of your eyes. For instance, if kitty is licking your face or hand and you rub or touch your eye. An open pimple would also be another possible entry point. Bacteria are tiny and opportunistic.

If you've already been bitten or scratched, or have been licked near a wound or scab, wash the affected area thoroughly with soap and water. Cats generally don't get sick from the bacteria, so it's tough to tell if your cat may be a carrier.

What are the symptoms of cat scratch fever?

Healthline groups symptoms of cat scratch fever into more and less common options.

Common symptoms of cat scratch fever include:

• a bump or blister at the bite or scratch site
• swollen lymph nodes near the bite or scratch site
• fatigue
• headaches
• a low-grade fever

Less common symptoms of cat scratch fever include:

• loss of appetite
• weight loss
• sore throat

In rare cases, there can also be complications such as encephalopathy (may cause brain damage or death), neuroretinitis (inflammation of the optic nerve causing blurred vision), osteomyelitis (bacterial infection in the bones, possibly leading to amputation) and Parinaud’s Syndrome (looks like pinkeye, may require surgery to remove infection).

Cat Scratch Fever Treatment

Most of the time, the infection will heal on its own. If an infection is severe, antibiotics or treatments of secondary conditions may be needed. Just pay attention to any broken skin contact with kitty, and watch out for the licking.

How to Keep Your Cat from Licking

Most of the time, kitty can be be distracted. Redirect your cat to another activity or relocate hands or face away from kitty's mouth. Eventually kitty will likely stick to mostly grooming him or herself. If you need additional tips, try the book, “Cat Training is Easy“, or stream some episodes of “My Cat from Hell” to gain some insight on managing difficult cats.

You may also enjoy:

• 15 Home Remedies to Reduce Cholesterol (Kitty Can Help!)
• Cats, Kids and Playing Hooky
• How to Get Rid of Mice in Your Home and Garage
• Ear Mites in Cats – Easy Treatment, Plus Common Questions

Originally posted in 2016, updated in 2017.

The post Cat Scratch Fever – What it is, How You Get It and How You Prevent It appeared first on Common Sense Homesteading.

This Article Was Originally Posted at commonsensehome.com Read The Original Article Here

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A Healthy Food Stockpile … For Half The Price

The following blog post A Healthy Food Stockpile … For Half The Price was first seen on http://ift.tt/2A5Qi63

Stockpiling a year’s worth of food is never cheap, but doing it with healthy food? That can break the bank.

Author and prepping expert Daisy Luther, though, says it doesn’t have to be that way. Daisy has discovered a few tricks that can help you store a year’s worth of food for half what you normally pay.

Daisy is this week’s guest on Off The Grid Radio. She tells us:

• Which healthy foods you should stockpile.
• Where you should store it.
• Why it’s essential to put healthy food in your stockpile.
• How a year’s worth of food can be purchased inexpensively in only three months.

Finally, Daisy reveals the ever-so-popular prepper food she urges people not to stockpile!

This Article Was Originally Posted On offthegridnews.com Read the Original Article here

Check Out The Post Here: A Healthy Food Stockpile … For Half The Price

Travel Safety Tips You Shouldn’t Ignore

Travel Safety Tips You Shouldn’t Ignore was originally published to http://ift.tt/2A5Qi63

Never leave home without these travel safety tips, so you can enjoy your trip to the fullest. Read on to know how you can come back home from your trip with nothing but fun memories!

Travel Safety Tips for a More Pleasurable Trip

Travel safety tips are my bread and butter, 'cause “when the going gets tough, the tough gets going.” Before we head to our favored destination, we need to be prepared. I've come up with some travel safety tips, so you can enjoy your trip in a secured manner. Check it out and learn each one of them for it's always better to be safe than sorry.

1. Get Travel Insurance

Getting a travel insurance covers your medical expenses, lost luggage, cancellation of your trip, flight accident, and reduces the risk of unfortunate and unexpected events you may incur while you're traveling. Travel insurance can give you peace of mind and save you big bucks in the long run. Remember to add this to your safe vacation tips and to-do list.

2. Don't Flaunt Your Cash and Valuables

Separate your cash meant for spending and put it where you can get it easily. Keep the rest is hidden, so you're not flaunting a big bundle of money every time you have to pay for something. We all know that, sometimes, we cannot help but take pictures of our trip. But we need to be always aware of our surroundings for these thieves can strike as fast as lightning when they recognize an opportunity.

3. Secure Your Luggage

It is of paramount importance to keep the things you carry safe and sound. Even if it isn't worth much, you still have to take care of it because what seems of little value to you might be exceptionally tempting and valuable to others. Always acquire a reliable lock for your luggage. If your luggage is well-secured, it will deter anyone from tampering or stealing your stuff.

4. Dress Inconspicuously

When you're in an unfamiliar place, you have to try not to stand out. Do some research as to what locals usually wear and dress accordingly. What might seem to be a standard clothing to you might be inappropriate to the locals. You will be less likely to be targeted by thieves if you dress inconspicuously.

5. Scan All Important Travel Documents

Before you embark on your much-awaited journey, you have to secure a copy of all your important travel documents. Scan, photocopy, or take a photo of your travel documents and make sure to send the copy to your own email. That way, in the event you need to use it, but you forgot it in your hotel room, you still have the access to all your details. And if it got stolen, getting a replacement would be much easier. That's one of the safe traveling tips you can take to the bank!

No. 8 will keep you appraised of the developing emergency in your area. 12 Survival Smartphone Apps | Preparedness https://t.co/ob9T292wF6

— Survival Life (@SurvivalLF) November 21, 2017

6. Keep an Emergency Car Kit

If you're traveling by car, it is always smart to carry an emergency car kit in your car's trunk. This kit should include a first aid kit, backup phone batteries, non-perishable food, water, flashlights, a shovel, reflective warning signs, and whatnot. Some people might think carrying these things is a waste, but when you're on a road trip, anything can happen. And when an emergency situation befalls, you will be glad you have this kit in your car's trunk.

7. Check Escape Routes in Your Hotel

Let's face it –hotel travel safety tips are one of the things we often overlook. This is because whenever you're in a hotel, you are more focused on the amenities the hotel offers rather than studying the hotel map at the back of your door or in the hallway. Take a quick look at the emergency escape routes, so you would know where to go in an emergency situation.

8. Stay Alert

You have to be alert at all times and if you're unfamiliar with the city, you have to be observant of your surroundings. Whenever you unwittingly wandered into a different area, or when you notice there are no other tourists around, walk back to the direction you came from without getting your map, and head back to a more populated area. Don't let other people distract you and always keep your valuables secure.

9. Download Safety Apps

In this age of technological advancements, there are downloadable apps you can get so, your family and friends can be informed of your whereabouts and alert them if something went wrong, especially if you're wandering alone. Applications such as Uber, bSafe, and Drunk Mode are some of the must-have apps.

10. Know Your Country's Embassy Information

Before you travel to other countries, you need to know your country's embassy or consulate contact information. They provide safety info and trustworthy details about the country you're visiting and if an emergency arises, they can help you. If you're living in the U.S. you can register your travel plans in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program, a free service administered by the government to keep you updated on safety and security information.

Check out this video from Wolters World for more travel safety tips that will surely guide you on your next trip!

We all need to feel free one way or another and to achieve that, we need a good break. What we should never take a break from is safety, especially when you're in unfamiliar territories. Remember these travel safety tips by heart and plan accordingly. Travel safely! Bon Voyage!

Do you know other travel safety tips in mind? Share your thoughts with us in the comments below!

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This Article Was Found Here: Travel Safety Tips You Shouldn’t Ignore

What is The Plague, How Could I Get It and How Dangerous is It?

The following blog post What is The Plague, How Could I Get It and How Dangerous is It? See more on: http://ift.tt/2A5Qi63

Laurie mentioned to me earlier this year about vanilla bean prices spiking due to a plague outbreak in Madagascar, so we decided to add basic information on The Plague to our Common Sense Preparedness series.

This post explains what the plague is, global plague “hotspots”, how you can get it, the three types of plague and symptoms of each type. We also discuss how to reduce your chances of getting the plague, protecting your pets and historical plague remedies.

What is the plague?

The plague or “Black Death” ravaged Europe from roughly 1347 to 1351 and into the 1700's, and is still around today. The plague is caused by Yersinia pestis bacteria. The Yersinia pestis bacterium affects mammals and humans and is carried primarily by fleas.

Flea – Source: CDC.GOV

Although the plague is very dangerous, thankfully the risk of infection is low.

The likelihood of:

• Dying in a car accident 1 in 645
• Dying of the flu (influenza) 1 in 6000
• Being struck by lightning is 1 in 700,000.
• Getting the plague is 1 in 3,000,000 – depending on where you live.

The World Health Organization reports that from 2010 to 2015 there were 3248 total cases worldwide, including 584 deaths.

Source: CDC.GOV

The Democratic Republic of the Congo, Madagascar, and Peru have the highest number of plague cases between 2010-2015. In the USA, the most outbreaks have occurred in the southwest in California, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona.

Source: CDC.GOV

How could I get the plague?

People associate the plague with rats. However, the fleas on the rats are the problem. Your 4 main sources are:

1. The bite of infected fleas.
2. Unprotected contact with blood, organs, body fluids or other contaminated materials.
3. Breathing in airborne particles from the cough of an infected human or animal, especially sick cats.
4. Touching or skinning infected animals, such as prairie dogs, squirrels, rats, and rabbits.

A lab test of a sample of pus from a bubo (a swollen, inflamed lymph node in the armpit or groin), blood or sputum is needed to confirm diagnosis of plague, and what type it is.

Source: CDC.GOV

Three Types of Plague

There are three main types of plague: Bubonic, Septicemic and Pneumonic. Pneumonic is most dangerous, as it can be passed person to person. The following information is sourced from and attributed to the WHO (World Health Organization) and CDC (Centers for Disease Control)

Bubonic plague

• Onset of symptoms: one to six days after the bite of a flea
• Symptoms include painful lymph nodes usually in the groin, armpit or neck. Other symptoms include: sudden fever and chills, headache, fatigue/extreme exhaustion & muscle aches. In later stages of the infection, buboes (sores) appear near the lymph nodes. The key identification of the bubonic form are swollen lymph nodes.
• If not treated early, the bacteria can spread to other parts of the body and cause septicemic or pneumonic infections.
• It is 30% to 60% fatal if not treated.

Septicemic plague

• Onset of symptoms: very rapid, sometimes in ONE day.
• Symptoms include very rapid onset of fever and chills; abdominal pain; diarrhea; vomiting; extreme fatigue and light-headedness; bleeding from mouth, nose, rectum, under skin; shock; gangrene (blackening, tissue death) in fingers, toes and nose.
• It occurs when plague bacteria multiply in the bloodstream. The Septicemic form of plague can quickly cause shock and organ failure.
• It is 95% to 99% fatal if not treated within roughly 24 hours of onset per WHO and CDC.

Pneumonic plague

• Onset of symptoms: three to seven days of exposure.
• Symptoms include chills, difficulty breathing, high fever, bloody cough and mucus, nausea, vomiting, headache, extreme weakness. It affects the lungs, is the most dangerous type and is easily spread person-to-person through cough droplets.
• This form is 95% to 99% fatal if not treated.

If you or a loved one develops symptoms of any form of plague, seek professional health care immediately. Plague can be treated successfully with antibiotics, but an infected person must be treated promptly to avoid serious complications or death. Early diagnosis and early treatment can save lives. If you suspect anyone is infected, wear a mask and gloves.

International Plague Symbol

Reducing your chance of getting the plague

Watch the news for outbreak information. Follow instructions from health professionals and officials. Watch for reports of large numbers of rodents dying. Historically, plague spreads in an area after large numbers of susceptible rodents died. The fleas pass the disease from the dead animals to other mammals and humans. In southwestern U.S. it is more likely to occur during cooler summers that follow wet winters.

More ways to protect yourself:

1. Be careful with pets and animals. Don’t let pets sleep with you.
2. Avoid traveling to areas that are more likely to have the plague.
3. Avoid interaction with people who may be infected. If you must interact with them, wear a mask and gloves when interacting with people who may be infected.
4. Eliminate nesting places for rodents such as sheds, garages or rock piles, brush, trash and excess firewood. For more information on rodent control see: The Best Ways to get rid of mice in your home and garage
5. Avoid picking up or touching dead animals. Wear gloves and a mask if you must handle sick or dead animals. Report sick or dead animals to the local health department or law enforcement officials.
6. Use insect repellent to prevent flea bites. Shower or bathe regularly to avoid flea infestation. Keep clothing and bedding clean to avoid flea infestation.
7. Isolate people with symptoms to avoid infecting others via air droplets. Providing masks for pneumonic patients and caregivers can reduce the spread of the bacteria.

Protecting your pets will also protect you and your family.

1. Treat dogs and cats for fleas regularly.
2. Keep pet food in rodent-proof containers.
3. Take sick pets to the veterinarian promptly.
4. Do not allow pets to hunt or roam in rodent habitat, such as prairie dog colonies.
5. Control mice, rats and other rodents.

Historical Herbal Cures for The Plague

Numerous methods were used to try to protect from plague. This information is provided as historical reference only, and is not intended to diagnose or treat any illness. Anything strong enough to use as medicine may have side effects, including herbs. Consult your medical professional before using herbal remedies if you are nursing, pregnant or on prescription medication.

Garlic has been used medicinally around the world for tens of thousands of years. During outbreaks, gravediggers drank wine containing crushed garlic and ate large quantities of fresh crushed garlic to ward off the plague. Even though garlic does not provide magical protection, the disease-fighting power of garlic has been repeatedly tested true in thousands of studies.

Garlic contains natural antioxidants, anti-fungal, anti-viral, antibiotic and antimicrobial properties and is known to kill numerous disease-causing bacteria.

Margosa a native to India, has anti-viral, anti-septic, and anti-bacterial properties. A common use includes using the leaves and branches in bath water for patients suffering from chicken pox symptoms.

Oregano has anti-bacterial, anti-viral, and anti-fungal properties.

Yarrow is anti-inflammatory

Ginger has anti-bacterial properties

Thieves Vinegar was used and consumed regularly to purportedly protect from plague. There are many variations of thieves vinegar, but some common ingredients include: garlic, lavender, rosemary, thyme, yarrow and sage. Learn how to make Thieves Vinegar here.

Facts About the Plague

This info-graphic from the World Health Organization summarizes basic plague information.

References:

World Health Organization Plague Information

• http://ift.tt/2llplVF
• http://ift.tt/2la5SIh
• http://ift.tt/12vOthL

CDC Plague Information

• http://ift.tt/2nAyNnd
• CDC Protect Yourself from Plague: http://ift.tt/2liVEVq

NOTICE: This post is informational only and is not intended to replace, supplement or complement the care of a medical professional. Seek assistance from medical professionals for all medical conditions.

This post was written by August Neverman IV. August is the Chief Information Officer and Information Security Officer of Brown County. He's served on several emergency preparedness teams during his tenure at a local hospital, as well as undergoing emergency response training during his time with the Air National Guard. He and his wife, Laurie, live with their two sons in a Green Built, Energy Star certified home with a permaculture twist.

The post What is The Plague, How Could I Get It and How Dangerous is It? appeared first on Common Sense Homesteading.

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3 Easy Ways To Make Homemade Waterproof Matches

6 Dirt-Cheap, Ingenious Ways To Water Animals During Winter

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Image source: Pixabay.com

Watering animals in the winter can be a huge headache for both small-scale homesteaders and large-scale farmers, especially if you’re off-grid. Certain animals, like dairy cows, need lots of water to keep up production. Producing 10-plus gallons of milk per day means they have to drink a lot more than 10 gallons of water. At the same time, water can be dangerous and create slippery conditions for animals like pigs and ducks that are prone to climb in and spill their buckets.

The most common tactic used by livestock owners is to try and keep water from freezing. This can be more daunting than you realize. Commercial farms water their animals in centralized tanks that can be heated electrically, but that may not be an option for a small-scale or off-grid homesteader. Propane heaters are one potentially good, automatic off-grid option, but they can be dangerous if the pilot light goes out or if they are not adequately protected from the animals themselves. A number of other options are listed here.

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But there are a few low-tech ways to keep the water from freezing without a big investment.

1. Hauling warm water

For some animals, the best way to ensure they have water is to haul in fresh water every single day. Chickens and rabbits are small and require relatively little water per day, and can easily be managed off-grid by bringing them fresh water daily. For larger animals, you’ll want to employ one of the low-tech strategies below to keep the water fresh longer, meaning that you’ll only have to water them every few days or only need to provide a small amount of water each day, saving a lot of labor and time.

2. Raised water platforms

The cold ground robs heat from water buckets placed directly upon it. Raising your watering station even a few inches off the ground can keep it from freezing in milder weather. Try a suspended water system for chickens, or a bucket latched to the barn wall for larger animals such as pigs. Even a few inches can make a big difference.

3. Watering indoors

Image source: Pixabay.com

By watering the animals indoors, even in an unheated structure, the protection from the elements will keep the water in a liquid state much longer. Insulating both the structure and the water tank will further delay the water’s freezing, and may mean that you only need to bring fresh liquid water every few days.

4. Passive compost heating

The water also can be passively heated with the use of active compost. Place a water trough near a corner of the structure, and then each time the pen is cleaned, toss manure behind and around the trough to keep the water insulated with the manure — and perhaps even heated if the manure is in the right balance to make it hot. Remember to keep a clean path to the water by only piling on three sides of the trough.

5. Watering in feed

For animals like pigs and chickens, wetting down their food into a warm mash is a great way to prevent dehydration on an otherwise dry ration, and to help reduce feed waste, as well. Pig feed crumbles and much of it can be lost to dust if it’s not wet into a slurry. Adding a bucket of hot water to the feed will encourage the animals to consume all the feed while keeping them hydrated. But they can’t get quite all the water they need in feed, so making sure they have a good supply of liquid water (or snow if appropriate) is still important.

6. Watering with snow

Knowing that deer survive all winter outdoors without a liquid water source can help encourage you to provide snow to your animals to supplement their water supply. As long as there is ample fresh snow that hasn’t been packed down into ice or covered with excrement, many animals, including horses and ducks, can do quite well. Fussy animals, such as many (but not all) breeds of chicken may refuse to eat snow, even to the point of dying of dehydration before leaving the warmth of their coop. You’ll need to evaluate on a case-by-case basis based on the temperament and breed of your animals, and even if they readily eat snow, it’s still a good idea to bring them a small bucket of warm water daily to make sure they’re staying well-hydrated. Dairy animals producing a significant amount of extra liquid in the form of milk will still require daily supplementation with a large supply of water.

When Not to Water

Believe it or not, there are some animals that should not be watered when temperatures are below freezing, such as water fowl. Ducks and geese love fresh water, but they use it more for bathing than drinking. No matter how small the outlet, ducks may thrash against it to create a puddle to bathe in, which will satisfy them temporarily, but if the temperatures are more than just a few degrees below freezing, they’re likely to create an ice slick, gluing themselves to the ground by their chest feathers and feet. Once they realize their predicament, they’ll thrash and injure themselves, often mortally. To avoid these risks, only provide fresh water to water fowl on days when the temps are above freezing. Otherwise, make sure they have an ample supply of fresh snow, even if it means shoveling it in from outside of their yard.

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9 Overlooked Things That Can Go Wrong With Your Survival Plan

9 Overlooked Things That Can Go Wrong With Your Survival Plan is courtesy of http://ift.tt/2A5Qi63

There’s a saying in the military that no plan survives contact with the enemy. This is a pretty good thing for us to keep in mind, as preppers. While we may not have a human enemy that has a vote in whether or not our plan will succeed, we can say that the disasters that we face and the need to survive are our enemy. As such, we should recognize that whatever survival plans we have won’t necessarily survive more than about five seconds after the disaster hits.

This was brought home to me by the hurricanes we had this year. While I was not caught in any of them, Hurricane Harvey looked like it was headed right for my home, before it veered north to attack Corpus Christi and Houston. But it was my after-action review of these hurricanes that made me realize that no matter how good any of our plans might be, we may not be able to use them, because nature and circumstances get a vote in their effectiveness.

That’s not to say that we shouldn’t plan; we should. If nothing else, a plan helps us determine what it is that we need to prepare. But at the same time, we shouldn’t put too much faith in our plan. Rather, we should see that plan as merely a starting point, a tool, used to help, but not chiseled in stone.

An important part of any planning process is looking to see where the plan might fail. Then solutions for those failures need to be developed, adding to the plan and making it more robust. Truly excellent planners develop a series of alternative plans or parts of plans, which can be turned to at a moment’s notice, once something goes wrong with the main plan. That way, everyone knows what to do, no matter what happens.

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So what I want to do here is look at some of the overlooked ways that our prepping plans might fail, giving you the option to think those failure scenarios out and decide how you are going to mitigate against them.

1. A Natural Disaster Makes Your Home Untenable

When Hurricane Harvey hit Houston, over a million people were displaced from their homes, mostly in Southeast Houston. I had to ask myself: How many of them were preppers and how many of those preppers were really ready for that to happen? Houston is in hurricane country, just like I am, so they should have been ready for that.

We all talk about having a bug-out plan, but how many of us really have one? I don’t mean just some vague idea about what we’ll do, but a true workable plan, which we can put into effect and which won’t be ruined by a million other people trying to evacuate and find someplace to go.

The other wake-up call that Hurricane Harvey gave me was that I don’t have any sort of boat, even though I live in a hurricane zone. Granted, my home is about 70 feet higher in altitude than Houston is, but the land is flat, so water won’t drain off well, the same problem that Houston had. While buying a swamp boat is a bit beyond my budget, you can buy a rubber boat for as little as $100. What hadn’t I?

2. The Government Calls for a General Evacuation

Officials in Houston didn’t call for a general evacuation, due to the problems with evacuating the city for Hurricane Rita in 2015. People died during that evacuation, from nothing more than sitting in a 100-mile-long traffic jam that lasted over 24 hours.

On the other hand, state officials in Florida called for an evacuation of the entire peninsula in preparation for Hurricane Irma. The governor was so emphatic in his call to evacuate, that he told Florida residents that the government would not help people who chose not to evacuate. Doing so would have forced government workers to stay behind, putting them at risk.

What do you do in such a situation? Do you obey the government and bug out, or do you try and hunker down and ride it out? That’s a difficult call to make, but one that any of us could be faced with at some time. Better to think it through beforehand, as well as thinking through how you’re going to avoid that 100-mile-long traffic jam. Will you bug out early or late? What alternate routes can you take? What can you use for emergency shelter, if the disaster strikes while you’re still trying to bug out?

3. Your OPSEC Doesn’t Work and Your Neighbors Knock on Your Door

I can just about guarantee you that this one is going to happen. I don’t care how good your OPSEC is, all it takes is one nosy neighbor to blow it out of the water. Even if they aren’t a gossip and don’t blab to the whole neighborhood, you can count on them coming knocking on your door when they run out of supplies.

We all say that we have to take care of our families first, and we can’t take care of everyone. The standard answer in the prepping community is that we don’t help our neighbors out, that it’s too impractical. But is it practical to deny them food and turn them into enemies?

This is a difficult one to deal with, but we need to be ready for it. My personal plan includes plenty of rice and beans to share with my neighbors, as well as extra seed for gardening. Rice and beans are cheap, so putting a few hundred extra pounds of them in my prepping stockpile really wasn’t all that big a burden. While that’s not as good as what I’m stockpiling for my family, I can at least give them something to eat, making them beholden to me.

Of course, when the time comes, that rice and beans will have a price. Specifically, I’m planning on making them work for it, trading labor for food. That way, it’s not just a handout.

4. Your Family is Widely Scattered When the Disaster Hits

This is one of my favorite problems to harp on, so bear with me if you’ve heard this before. The problem is that we tend to start our planning from an “ideal point” with everyone home when the disaster strikes. But real life isn’t that neat. With all the activities that the modern family has, chances are that your family will be scattered when the disaster strikes.

The answer to this one is actually fairly simple; you need a plan for bringing your family together, along with alternatives to use, if you can’t stick with the original plan. More than anything, you have to ensure that both parents have a secure way of getting home and that you have a plan for picking up the kids.

Another important part of this is making sure you have communications with your kids, so that you can warn them that you’re coming to pick them up at school or their other activities. How would you inform them, if an EMP takes out their phones? What can you use as an alternate signal? Or could you have it as a given that you will pick them up under certain circumstances and that they should get out of class and be ready.

That’s another part that you need to think through and discuss with your children. How are they going to get out of class? If the school is in lockdown, what can they do? How can they give their teacher the slip and meet you outside?

5. A Member of Your Survival Team Turns Against You

With tensions high and people packed close together, chances are you’re going to have some strife in your survival team. Even if you’re the best of friends, living together while trying to survive is going to put your relationship under stresses that you’ve never encountered before. There will be disagreements, possibly severe enough to lead to fights or a splitting of the team.

The other way that a disgruntled team member might act is to betray you to outsiders, in the hope that they can integrate themselves in that group, when they leave. That’s a dangerous tactic for them to take, but people tend to get irrational when they are upset.

You need to establish safeguards within your team rules for how you will deal with disagreement and strife. What can you do to minimize that? How can you resolve conflicts, before they become serious? How will you handle common property, if one team member decides to go it on their own? What

6. Unseasonably Cold Weather Causes You to Run Out of Firewood

It is truly amazing how much firewood you can burn through in one winter. If you’ve never heated your home with wood, you will be surprised the first time you do. Unless you have six chords of good hardwood split and stacked, you can’t be sure that you’ll have enough.

What will you do, if your firewood runs out? Where can you get more? How will you cut it and haul it back to your home? What alternatives can you use? Wet wood doesn’t burn well, so is there another wood source that you can count on, which won’t already be consumed by people who aren’t prepared?

For that matter, once you make it through the first winter, you’re going to have to start preparing for the second. Where are you going to be able to cut wood for that winter? What can you cut it with?

7. Someone in Your Family is Injured

The higher level of physical activity that survival requires, especially long-term survival, greatly increases the chances of serious injury. With transportation down and hospitals that might not have power, how will you get medical care?

Obviously, the best thing to do is to have a medic as part of your survival team, the more trained the better. You’ll also need to have a good stock of the necessary medical supplies for them to work with. But what can you do, if you don’t have that person on your team? What alternatives are out there? Is there a doctor close by, who you can make an alliance with, even if they aren’t part of your team?

Another option is getting enough medical training to take care of most things yourself. This is extremely time consuming and not everyone can handle it. But it might be the best option you can find.

8. Part of Your Food Stockpile Goes Bad

If there’s anything that we preppers depend on, it’s our stockpile. But what if something happens to it? What if it gets damaged by flooding, stolen by thieves or destroyed by insects; what then? Do you have an alternate plan? Do you have an alternate cache of supplies and a means to move it to your home?

9. Your Home is Attacked

Finally, here’s another one that I think we should all count on, our homes coming under attack. The common scenario is that starving people gang together and attack a prepper’s home, trying to take their food stockpile. What will you do?

I’m not looking for a general answer here, like “I’ll protect my home” I’m looking for a specific one. Do you really have a defensive plan in place? Have you made the necessary modifications to your home to make it defensible? Do you have a defensive perimeter in place?

Remember, your home’s walls won’t stop bullets, especially rifle bullets, even if your home is made of brick. I’ve shot a brick wall, just to test out what would happen, and everything I used, with the exception of a .22 LR, busted the brick. So don’t count on that brick for protection. At the best, all it is, is concealment, not cover.

What would you add to our list? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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The Sun Heats His Off-Grid ‘Passive Home’ – Even When It’s 0 Degrees Outside

The Sun Heats His Off-Grid ‘Passive Home’ – Even When It’s 0 Degrees Outside was originally published to http://ift.tt/2A5Qi63

Although Andrew Michler has been working on his passive house for the past 20 years, he admits it is still very much a work in progress.

Located one hour north of Denver and offering sweeping mountain views, the off-grid project started 20 years ago when Michler bought what he calls “a solar shack” for $60,000. “It immediately fell apart, and I have been fixing it ever since,” he admits.

Michler is modest; he has rebuilt that shack and a former shed on the property into an impressive Passive House, which is an international term for a building that focuses on reducing energy consumption by as much as 90 percent. The passive heating design allows the house to stay warm – about 62 degrees – when it’s -10 degrees Fahrenheit.

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The idea for the Passive House does not come from builders, Michler explains, but from physicists. “This entire building is designed in a spread sheet,” he says, adding, “This house is essentially a thermal battery bank.”

Bright, inviting and warm enough inside to allow you to stand comfortably in front of a large pane window wearing a t-shirt during a harsh Colorado winter, Michler’s home features a simple wedge shape. Along with a southern exposure and a location nestled on a hillside, the home also is wedged between three trees, which offer it an energy-efficient canopy.

Inside, Michler says he “decided to erase any labels from rooms and make it as much a continuous space” as he could. “The idea of walls is counterproductive,” he explains. “They just make a small space smaller.”

Two children visiting the home during a recent video interview are drawn to a large second level net bed that works as a place to sleep or to play. From the net bed, the kids also climb into a high window ledge that beckons them with a commanding view of the surrounding landscape. “It almost has become a little clubhouse space up there,” Michler says as he watches them.

The home’s doors and windows are designed to be air-tight, and Michler says that when they are shut, the home will hold its temperature for days. “It’s like a big thermos,” he comments.

In the small, tidy kitchen, he has used equipment designed for boats, including the cooktop, the cutting board and the countertops. Flooring throughout the home is 80 percent plywood, a decision he says he was nervous about at first. He says the floor has held up well, however, and he points out how the different grains of the floor boards add character to the bedroom.

When Michler built his outside rainwater catch and filtration system, it was contrary to Colorado building laws. Although those rules have now been modified, Michler laments that restrictions ever existed against harnessing a valuable natural resource in the high desert.

Michler says living off-the-grid as he and his wife do is not for everybody, and he admits that some of his neighbors have given up and moved back to urban areas.

“You have to know yourself to be out here for any length of time,” he says. “But it is not just your relationship with yourself, but also with your landscape.”

“The forest is very dynamic. … There is a rawness in the landscape, and the inside (of the home) contains a certain level of rawness too.”

Would you like to live in this type of house? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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The Ethics Of Slaughtering Animals (And How To Respond To Those Who Oppose It)

The Ethics Of Slaughtering Animals (And How To Respond To Those Who Oppose It) was originally published to http://ift.tt/2A5Qi63

Image source: Pixabay.com

It’s a question I receive all too often, talking about my experiences raising animals or even some other aspect of rural living, such as preserving or cooking the meat. People are always astonished that I somehow manage to raise animals for several months (or years) and then am able to kill them.

The question, for me, is one rooted in misogyny. My partner (a male) never gets this question, while I — female — am constantly bombarded by it. “How can you be so heartless?” “Don’t you get attached?” That’s a topic for another time, but in short, no, I am not heartless, I love my animals, and by the way, men are allowed to have compassion for animals, too. Oh, and women should be allowed to provide food for themselves. Just a thought.

Instead of being annoyed or offended that my morality is being called into question, I’ve come up with a few poised, calmly delivered responses, which I’ll detail. The fact of the matter is that it usually doesn’t make sense to argue with people who refuse to understand this way of life. And in all fairness, it’s not for everyone.

For nearly five years as an adolescent and young adult, I was an ardent vegetarian. I eventually added fish, then other meats, back into my diet. At the time, I was suffering from severe and debilitating migraines, and it seemed time to make some sort of — or any sort of — dietary change. I cut out meat, and the headaches went away practically overnight.

Diatomaceous Earth: The All-Natural Livestock De-Wormer!

In doing so, I was cutting out a major component of the processed foods in my diet. Growing up, I typically only had access to meats from the grocery store instead of fresh from the farm. My parents had no objection to this; the fact was simply that as a two-working parents household, neither had time (and fairly so) to raise and then slaughter their own meat.

When people used to ask why I was a vegetarian, I rarely had a good answer. It was the way I had chosen to live, and really, I didn’t like meat all that much. I had no connection to eating meat, and had no desire to do so. Plus, it made me sick. So it was with great hesitation several years later that my now-fiancée convinced me to try fish that we had caught together. Then game. And eventually I transitioned back into meat.

When we decided to raise our own animals, I never once thought I would have trouble doing so. And I don’t. Yes, the animals are cute, and yes, you get attached. But as Americans, we have a woeful separation between what’s on our plate and what happens in reality. And that’s part of the reason why I remained a vegetarian for so long. I had let my dietary choices be guided by apathy instead of a conscious appreciation of what I was putting into my mouth.

I sometimes hesitate to share the thoughts that follow with my friends and family. Typically, I don’t need to. Most of those within my inner circle understand and appreciate my opinions on agriculture and I don’t need to soapbox. However, for those of you who have encountered less-than-warm receptions upon explaining your point of views, the following information may help.

I have a strong Native American heritage, and that often guides my viewpoints on raising animals. Most Native American tribes believe in the reciprocity of nature, of the reincarnation of souls and the need to respect every living creature that steps foot on this planet. To some extent, that is echoed in my own philosophies on raising animals.

Now for those of your naysayers who are vegetarians, who do not eat meat at all, then the argument is entirely different. This argument is strictly for those who eat meat, but have qualms about your ability to raise meat and then butcher it yourself. This concern is usually out of some misguided notions that involve a skewed idea of where food comes from.

Factory Farms vs. Free Range

When we choose to raise animals, my fiancée and I make sure that absolutely every aspect of their lives is comfortable and high-quality. We allow our chickens to free-range, giving them access to the finest feeds and plenty of space to roam. They are chickens in their most natural state. When we raise pigs, we gave them nearly a full acre upon which to roam and root and do pig things. We allow our animals free access to feed and water, and it’s easy to see that they are happy.

But here’s where people get things wrong. They forget the reason why they are raising these animals, and they become pets. They become personified. If you are raising animals for subsistence, you cannot do this. You must remember that, at the end of the day, they will be food. Some people say that you shouldn’t name your animals, or you shouldn’t spend any time with them, or you’ll become too attached and won’t be able to kill them. I don’t know if I believe that. I say you should do what feels right to you, but just remember at the end of the day that they will be food.

There’s nothing heartless in that. Refusing to believe in this process is a refusal to believe in the reciprocity of nature. One thing lends to the life of another, and then another. Although some may argue that humans haven’t evolved to eat meat — which is a separate argument altogether — those who recognize that we are omnivores must come to terms with the fact that their meat comes from somewhere.

That somewhere is often factory farms who don’t treat their animals half as well as small family farms do. Animals are pumped full of high-hormone, highly processed feed, and kept in tight, cramped conditions. Then they are killed. That’s all there is to it.

Whenever anyone takes issue with my ability to raise an animal for seven months, to love that animal and care for it, and then butcher it, I invite him to do some research on larger farms. Likely, that’s all it takes to end the conversation. We have become disconnected with what life is all about. We don’t care where our food comes from because we just buy it in bulk at the grocery store. We don’t care what animals are really like because we see pictures of them on our cell phones and aren’t they cute? That’s not life. That is fiction.

The ‘Most Humane Endeavor There Is’

Some people take more persuading. “How can you spend months loving that animal, and then kill it?” Today, we are bombarded with images of animals as cute, fluffy little creatures who want nothing more than to make humans happy. That idea itself is a naive notion. Treating animals as pets or as “cute factories” is more disrespectful than eating them. Let them exist in their natural state. Let them be animals. Believe it or not, it’s possible to care for an animal for months — years — and then eat it. It’s life.

Raising your own animals is the most humane — and most human — endeavor there is. What other creature, in nature, would rouse themselves from a dead sleep at 3 o’clock in the morning to repair a fence to ensure that another species was protected against hungry roaming coyotes? What other creature, in nature, would drive half an hour round trip just to ensure that another species has nutritious, delicious food at all times?

To be clear, I don’t take any pleasure in butchering. None at all. I think it’s easy to think, as an outsider whose boots have never felt the mud of a pig pen, or whose hands have never felt the grainy itch of a hay bale, that slaughtering an animal involves running into a pen and blasting away with a shotgun or slicing and dicing aimlessly while the poor animal runs wild trying to escape. That’s not at all how it works, and you, as a homesteader, likely know that.

The process of slaughter is a painful one, and not just for the animal. I refused to butcher a chicken until I had seen my fiancée do it dozens of times, not because I felt bad for the chicken, but because I wanted to make sure I knew exactly what I was doing so as not to cause needless suffering.

In Native American tradition, they follow two principles: be thankful, and don’t be wasteful. I adhere to those two principles as well. When I slaughter an animal, I am thankful for its contribution to my life. I don’t waste a single scrap, making soup from bones, rendering lard from pig fat to feed my chickens, spending hours to ensure that the taking of a life was not done in vain.

You might get called a hippie. I have, many times. But it’s worth it, even if to only feel a greater connection with the food you are putting on your plate. That connection is what life’s about, and with it comes a greater appreciation for every single aspect of your life, along with a renewed thankfulness for your own life and an understanding of how the world works.

So if you still find yourself bombarded with criticism or questioning, you don’t need to grow hostile or agitated. Just turn to the commentator and say, gently, “That’s just life.” That’s all there is to it.

What advice would you add? Share it in the section below:

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check out the full article Here: The Ethics Of Slaughtering Animals (And How To Respond To Those Who Oppose It)

Your Great-Grandparents Didn’t Celebrate Christmas Like You Do

Your Great-Grandparents Didn’t Celebrate Christmas Like You Do Find more on: Total Survival

Artist: Edmund Restein

As we enjoy the Christmas season, many people are thinking about tradition. For us here in America, Christmas has become a time of family traditions, where we look back to a simpler time and rekindle memories of our youth and imagined memories of our grandparents’ youth, as well.

But the traditions we think of as “old traditions” aren’t as old as we like to think. The Christmas celebration, as we know it, is much different than Christmas of old. While many of the symbols we recognize as being part of Christmas existed in the beginning of the 1800s, they weren’t all widely used. It was through the years of the 1800s that our Christmas traditions, as we know them today, became widespread American traditions.

This was actually an important part of American history, as the country was very divided through the 1800s. Not only did we fight the Civil War during that time, but society as a whole was fragmented. Cultural groups were widely separated and geographic distance made it difficult for there to be any cohesion in a land as vast as the United States of America.

But communications also were growing during those years. In 1860, the Pony Express connected the East and West Coasts in a way that had not previously existed. The very next year the Pony Express was supplanted by the first intercontinental railway, allowing people to travel from coast to coast in three and a half days. All this happened at the same time as an ever-faster means of communication – the telegraph. The first telegraph lines to cross the continent were strung by the railway right of way.

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This increased communication heightened the need for unifying the country, but it was war that found us first. On April 12, 1861, the first shots of the Civil War were fired. Four long years later, it ended, and the people of the United States started on the even longer road to healing. A part of that healing process was the unifying of our Christmas traditions.

Solely A European Holiday?

While Christmas existed as a holiday before this time, it wasn’t celebrated by all. Basically, it was a European holiday and so was only celebrated by those whose ancestors had come from Europe. Even then, not everyone joined in the celebration. The early Pilgrims didn’t celebrate Christmas, because they didn’t see it mentioned in the Bible. Of all of the European countries, Germany made the most of Christmas; many of our traditions can trace their roots to that country.

Those early Christmas celebrations weren’t the mass-marketed, highly commercialized festivities we have today. Rather, the Christmas celebration was something done in the family, in the church and in the neighborhood. Church was an important part of the celebration, with many people going to church both on Christmas Eve and then again on Christmas Day.

Gift-giving was always a part of Christmas — for those who could afford it. But the gifts that were given were largely homemade. Being personal, they were considered superior to anything store-bought. As with clothing, store-bought gifts were only for those who couldn’t do any better.

Image source: Pixabay.com

Eating a feast was an important part of celebrating Christmas, much as it is today. Cooking started weeks in advance, as mincemeat and plum pudding needed time to ferment. Christmas cookies and pies were common, as people ate the best of what they had. For those who could afford it, that meant beef or a ham.

Christmas became a very social time, with carolers going from door to door, singing. It would be impolite not to invite them in for a warm cup of wassail, turning every caroling event into a moving party, with time taken at each home to visit and wish the inhabitants a Merry Christmas.

Christmas Gets Commercialized

The commercialism of Christmas didn’t really start until after the Civil War and was stronger in New England — where much of the country’s wealth was concentrated — than it was in other parts of the country. Merchants responded to the needs of those celebrating the holidays first in providing factory-made ornaments for the home, then Christmas cards and finally the gifts that people gave.

Commercial gift-giving also lent rise to the idea of wrapping gifts, increasing the suspense and thereby the recipient’s joy. Large retailers began offering simple wrapping as a way of making those gifts more special, so that they could compete with homemade gifts. Eventually, the tradition of wrapping gifts became the norm and wrappings were developed specially for that purpose.

But even then, gift-giving was much more limited than what we have today. Our English and German ancestors brought to those stores the idea of Father Christmas, who eventually became our beloved Santa Claus. Children hung stockings for Father Christmas to fill, which at that time were real stockings.

Laura Ingalls Wilder (1867-1957), the creator of Little House on the Prairie, wrote of her Christmas treasures in one year’s stocking. She was delighted to find a shiny new tin cup, a peppermint candy, a heart-shaped cake and a brand new penny. In that time, that was a treasure trove of wealth on Christmas morning.

Image source: Pixabay.com

Christmas cards were a unique American invention, albeit by a German immigrant. Louis Prang (1824-1909) brought the idea to the forefront as a substitute for inexpensive gifts. Originally, these cards were small works of art, intended to adorn the home after the holidays were over. Prang even had art contests every year, seeking our original artwork to put on his cards.

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Early Christmas trees weren’t bedecked with commercial ornaments. That didn’t come about until the 1870s and later. Instead, families would decorate their trees with what they had on hand. This often included the bounty they had gleaned from nature, as fruit and berries were the early ornaments, following after the Jewish tradition of decorating the Sukkah for the Feast of Tabernacles. Ribbons, cookies and hard candies were added to the fruit, nuts and berries, making those trees into a multi-colored joy.

The lights on the tree were originally candles. While dangerous, they were normally only lit on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. The idea was started by Martin Luther, the same man who started the Reformation. He had been in the woods praying at night and saw the beauty of the starlight reflecting off the icicles on the pine trees. Wanting to share this with his children, he put candles on the family tree. When German Christians immigrated to the United States, they brought this tradition with them.

All of these traditions, most of which have survived to today, helped to bring the American people together, not as separate ethnic groups living in the same land, but as Americans. Celebrating a common holiday, with common traditions, helped to make us one common people.

Sadly, there are those who want to squash some of those traditions, taking Christmas, and especially Christ, out of the holiday. Yet it was the celebration of His birth which helped our country to heal and brought people together after the Civil War. The destruction of such a unifying celebration can do nothing to bring us closer together, but rather the opposite; it could become one more wedge, used to separate the American people into smaller and smaller groups, driving a wedge between us.

Let us continue to celebrate Christmas as what it is. Better yet, let us revive some of the old customs, sharing time with family, friends and neighbors. Let it become once more a unifying force, bringing the nation back together again.

What are your thoughts on Christmas and its celebration? Share them in the section below:

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