5 Old-Fashioned, Overlooked Ways To Save Time And Money

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No doubt, technology can help save you time and money. Remember when you used to have to wait until after 7 p.m. to call long-distance because it was cheaper? Now, though, we can talk to our loved ones anytime we like!

But technology can’t do everything as cheaply or as quickly as we would like to think.

Here are five ways you can save time and money by doing things the old-fashioned way:

1. Turn off your phone.

My mother was quite a talkative person, but she would sometimes take the receiver off the hook. That’s good advice, even in the days of smartphones and cell phones. If you allow the phone to dominate your life, you literally could spend 24 hours of every day answering emails, sending texts, and chatting on Facebook. Whenever you really need to get something done and you find that you are constantly interrupted by your phone, turn it off.

2. Organize your life.

Spending a few minutes to make out lists, organize your closet into business and casual clothing, and write down important reminders (and put them on the fridge) will save you more time and money than you can imagine!

3. Know the difference between needs and wants.

Warren Buffett once said that if you buy things you don’t need, you will soon find yourself selling the things you do need. Be certain that you are buying (or paying for) what you need first.

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Do you have a gym membership that you pay for each month, but that you only use a half dozen times a year? Do you really NEED a rice cooker when a pot with a lid works just as well? Yes, “wants” are nice to have, but if you find that you are short on cash every month, perhaps it’s time to prioritize your needs and wants. Our ancestors were great at this, weren’t they?

4. Put your kids to work.

Many parents make the mistake of thinking that when they do everything for their child, they are showing them that they are loved. “They will have to work their whole lives, let them be kids now,” we hear.

Unfortunately, this will end up costing parents tons of time and money. Children might feel more loved, but they also will spend their entire lives feeling entitled to this sort of treatment. Show your children real love by teaching them that everyone needs to work and pull their weight. No, you don’t have to send them out to the fields to hoe weeds, but when I was only five, I made my own bed, dressed myself, put my dirty clothes in the hamper, got my own breakfast (cereal and milk), and did simple chores after school such as feeding the dog and putting the mail on the kitchen table.

5. Keep it simple.

I have a confession to make: I don’t own a food processor. Amazing, but true — although I did buy a used one once. At least in my case, I found that the effort and time it took to take it apart and clean it was far more time-intensive than if I used a simple knife to cut food. A blender and a knife does almost everything a food processor does for far less money and effort. This isn’t to say that I don’t love kitchen gadgets, but many of them cost a lot of money and are time-intensive.

What would you add to our list? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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How To Feed Rabbits Sustainably Without Store-Bought Pellets

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Rabbit breeders around the country raise more than 30 million rabbits a year, and most of them feed rabbits little other than commercial pellets. This food has the perfect protein and nutrients and is reasonably priced at $14 to $20 for a 50-pound bag.

Just one problem. What happens when the supply line is severed during a storm or long-term power outage and you can’t get that 50-pound bag? Well, that’s the world I plan for, so the goal with your rabbits should be to feed them from sustainably produced food from the homestead.

But it’s hard work. Then again, if hard work scares you, buy the rabbit pellets.

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To successfully feed rabbits, you must first understand their diet. Full-grown rabbits that are not pregnant need 12-15 percent protein in their diet. Pregnant does and growing young need 16-18 percent protein for optimal health and growth.

So, you need a source of protein, keeping in mind that rabbits are vegetarian.

If you have enough land and the resources to grow hay, then high-protein crops like barley, alfalfa, oats and soybeans can make up much of the diet.

If you have limited space and ability, like me (I live in a mountain forest), then other options are available. For example, I grow peas and podded radishes for roughage, and soybeans for hay. This provides some protein and fiber. Most of what the rabbits eat, however, comes from the plants I forage for on the homestead. I go out daily and forage for dandelion greens, clover, a legume-like wild plant that grows like a weed all over the place, ferns, numerous weeds I have no name for but the rabbits love, maple leaves, oak leaves, and young blackberry leaves and twigs (before the thorns harden on them).

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Of course, foraging only works if you know what is healthy for rabbits to eat, and what is poisonous to rabbits.

There are hundreds of websites purporting to list what rabbits can and can’t eat. However, sometimes they are wrong and sometimes they conflict. For example, some websites say soybeans are fine (and they are for my rabbits); others say they are not. So, if you’re not sure about whether a new plant is OK, test it out. Rabbits are smart and generally won’t eat something poisonous to them.

When there’s a new plant you’d like to feed to them, take a small piece of it and mix it in with something your rabbits regularly consume, like dandelion greens or pea sprouts. The rabbit will sniff the new plant and do one of three things: devour it, nibble on it, or ignore it. A plant that is immediately devoured can probably be a new staple in their diet. If they nibble on it, then gradually introduce it and see how the herd likes it. If the rabbit ignores it, then avoid feeding it to them.

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Feeding your rabbits sustainably requires patience and hard work. Keep these thoughts in mind when striving toward that goal:

1. While 12-18 percent protein is optimal, young rabbits on a higher fiber, lower protein diet will do fine. It’s just that they will take longer to mature. For example, kits (baby rabbits) fed on an ideal protein diet take about eight to 10 weeks to mature to slaughter weight, while those on a lower protein diet can take 14 to 20 weeks.
2. Feeding rabbits sustainably is not an absolute. You can work toward it gradually. On my homestead, I generally grow enough and forage enough to feed my herd sustainably. But I still buy some high-protein pellets for pregnant does and for the herd during winter. Every year, I buy fewer bags of pellets, but I’m not yet to the point of full sustainability.
3. Don’t forget about barter. Try and set up a system for trading rabbit meat for food for your other rabbits. For example, I have a deal where I trade one rabbit for two large bales of alfalfa hay—enough to help feed my rabbits for a couple of months. Rabbit meat is a great commodity. Don’t be afraid to barter with it.

How do you feed your rabbits sustainably? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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Seeds vs Starters – All You Need to Know

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Starting your own garden can be such a rewarding experience. As time goes on, and you watch your plants grow and learn to take care of them, you become even more connected to your garden. Many experts argue that this attachment helps the plants to grow taller, straighter, and healthier! But in order to foster this connection, you have to know what’s going on right from the start. That means knowing the difference between seeds vs starters – and knowing which is right for you.

Whether you’re starting from seeds or beginning at the nursery stage, there are many positive benefits of each option that can produce beautiful plants for your garden. Read on to find out whether you might prefer seeds vs starters! Then discover more information about all of the beautiful possibilities that both options can provide for your garden!

Seeds vs Starters – The Basics

Seeds

Buying seeds comes with many positive benefits for the gardening experience.

Some Pros of Seeds

Variety:

With all of the new hybrid seeds being crossed and created, the possibilities are seemingly endless when you choose to plant. Funky combinations – like black tomatoes or purple potatoes – are just a couple examples of some inventive new plants that will ensure your garden is the most unique in the neighborhood!

Cost:

Seeds are much cheaper than buying nursery plants. Typically, a packet containing 100 seeds will cost no more than about $2!

Self-sustainable:

After you practice planting from seeds and really start to get a feel for how to cultivate your garden, you will no longer have to rely on others to start your garden for you by growing nursery plants. This will lead to an increase in self-satisfaction. It’s a joy knowing that you can do this process all on your own!

Getting Started with Seeds

Whether you’re at a beginner’s level or you’re simply looking for an easy planting season, we’ve got some of the lowest maintenance and quickest-growing seed options for your summer garden!

Sunflowers:

These seeds can be sown straight into the ground in a sunny patch. Then, away they go! If you’re looking for maximum height in your sunflowers, add stem supports to the sprouts. This will help them grow tall and strong!

Sweet peas:

Their beautiful fragrance and fresh color, not to mention their easy planting process, make these flowers a garden favorite! These large seeds just need a sunny spot, a support fence, and plenty of water. Follow these steps, and you’ll watch them bloom in no time.

Nigella:

Perhaps the easiest seed plant of all time. All you need to do is scatter these seeds across an open patch of land, and let them do their thing. After the flowers fade, the plant will even set seed for next year. Easy breezy!

California poppy:

Much like their nigella friends, California poppies just need to be sprinkled where you want them to grow. They also do well in hot dry climates that don’t see lots of rain, so this is a perfect option for our down-south gardeners!

Starters

Growing straight from seed is not the only way to a healthy and vibrant garden. That would end the seeds vs starters debate all too quickly! Many planters prefer to self-start and sustain their plants through the starter approach. There are many positive aspects of following this method:

Some Pros of Starter Plants:

Ease:

Nursery plants are used by all different types of gardeners. Whether you’re brand-new to the plant process, or have been an expert for years, nursery-bought plants are an easy addition to a garden of any shape or size.

Cost:

You can buy in bulk at a relatively cheap price. There are usually plenty of neighborhood wholesale nurseries that specialize in certain types of plants if you’re looking for a particular favorite!

Business Opportunity:

You can even start your own plant nursery as a part-time business with good, profitable turnaround. If you can spare an hour a day, you can create your own schedule and start a backyard plant nursery. Then, you can later re-plant and sell your plants for a sizable profit margin increase!

Jumping into Starters

When it comes to the most successful plants that are grown through a nursery approach, there are several options that typically see the quickest growth, the steepest profit (if you are wanting to re-plant and sell at a later time), and the most beautiful results:

Ground covers:

This is quickly becoming an ideal backyard nursery crop as it’s perfect for the water shortages that tend to come along with summer heat. In addition to conserving water, they also require low maintenance and minimal upkeep. They’re also a living mulch that provides major benefits for soil. Ground covers are known for keeping soil cool, moist, and protecting it from erosion.

Ornamental grass:

This option is particularly popular among gardeners who also enjoy landscaping, as they can be used in so many ways and can function in numerous locations (as ground covers, border attractions, or near ponds). Ornamental grasses are easy to grow and are bothered by few insects and diseases.

Trees and shrubs for landscaping:

These types of plants can find a home directly in the ground (either in your garden or used as landscaping additions to pre-existing structures), or they can be planted and maintained inside pots if you’re looking for an alternative approach. If you’re a specialty grower, or looking to target your potential nursery business towards buyers who have a more particular taste, these plants can be extremely profitable – some gardeners have been known to make up to $150 per plant!

So which is better?

Whether you’re at the beginning stages of your journey as a gardener, or you’re a seasoned expert looking for a fresh new perspective, there are multiple benefits to both the seed and nursery approach when cultivating growth in your garden. You might even be able to start your own low-cost, low-maintenance business from this hobby or pastime of yours! Or perhaps you’d rather just enjoy the beauty of watching life grow before your eyes. No matter your purposes, we’ve got some ideas for everyone to share and enjoy!

What did you think of our post on seeds vs starters? Let us know in the comment section below!

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North Korea Quietly Testing Submarine Nuclear Missile System In ‘Highly Unusual’ Activity

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North Korea is testing a submarine missile system in what one defense official called “highly unusual and unprecedented levels” of activity.

Four tests of a cold-ejection launch system for submarine-based ballistic missiles have been carried out at the Sinpo Naval Shipyard this year, with the latest one taking place in recent days, officials told CNN.

A cold-launch system prevents the missile’s engine from burning the submarine. With such a system, the missile is propelled away from the submarine before the engine starts.

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“Achieving a successful cold-launch ejection test, even from land-based tubes, is a critical step forward in making an operational missile,” defense analyst Michael Gatling told The Telegraph. “The whole point of putting missiles into a stealthy platform like a submarine is to achieve tactical surprise, and this moves closer to that.”

Just last week, North Korea tested an intercontinental ballistic missile (ICBM) that experts say likely could have reached Denver or Chicago if it had been fired in that direction.

Strangely enough, North Korea has the world’s largest submarine fleet with 76 ships, according to Global Firepower. Most of those vessels are small diesel-powered submarines not capable of hauling missiles, but all it would take is one nuclear submarine to cross the Pacific to kill several million Americans.

Meanwhile, a North Korean submarine equipped with 14 torpedoes and up to 20 mines conducted tests for a week in July off the coast of the Korean peninsula. Officials with the US-Korea Institute at Johns Hopkins University told The Telegraph that the latest cold-launch test “most likely is preparations for a test in the near future of an updated Pukguksong-1 submarine-launched ballistic missile or a potentially newer system.”

North Korean launched its first submarine-launched ballistic missile (SLBM) in August 2016.

What do you think the Trump administration should do? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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Sugar-Storing Tricks: The Right Way To Stockpile It For Years And Years

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Whether you are purchasing it for long-term emergency storage or just for your kitchen pantry, you may wonder how long sugar will last.

Well, the answer can be “indefinitely” if sugar is stored correctly. The package of sugar you buy at the store may include a “best before” date. According to the U.S. Sugar Co., headquartered in Buffalo, N.Y., you may safely use sugar long after that date.

However, the quality of sugar depends on how it is stored. Sugar is highly absorbent, so you must keep it away from any kind of moisture. Even sugar that is exposed to humid air may begin to harden and clump.

Brown sugar is especially susceptible to hardening. Hardened sugar is safe to consume, but it is more difficult — and unsightly — to use. To prevent clumping, store sugar in its original package or, if opened, in an airtight container placed in a dry environment.

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Also, keep sugar away from any heat sources such as stoves or ovens. Heat causes condensation, which eventually turns into water droplets that sugar can absorb. When sugar absorbs moisture, it clumps.

Hardened Sugars

You can soften hardened white sugar simply by breaking the clumps with a fork or the back of a spoon. To soften brown sugar, you can place it in a microwave-safe bowl and cover it with a lid. Heat in the microwave on high for 30 seconds. Check to see if the sugar has softened, and if not, try another 30-second interval. Repeat if necessary.

Although white sugar lasts longer when stored in a dry environment, brown sugar can be placed in an airtight container in the freezer for long-term storage.

If you are dealing with more than a few lumps, here are some more detailed instructions for restoring hardened sugar to its granular form.

White sugar — White sugar hardens when it absorbs moisture. To soften it, place it on a cookie sheet in a preheated 150-degree Fahrenheit oven for 15 minutes. Then break up the clumps with a spoon. Next, turn off the oven, leaving the softening sugar in the oven for about another hour.

Brown sugar — Have you ever been ready to make cookies or a cake only to be confronted with hard brown sugar? Here are a few time-honored ways to soften brown sugar:

• Add a slice of fresh bread to the bag of brown sugar for a day or two.
• Place a damp paper towel next to the brown sugar package and enclose both in another plastic bag for a day or two.
• Place a washed and dried orange peel next to the brown sugar container so that the natural oils from the orange can soften the sugar. This process will take a few hours.

If you are in a hurry, place the brown sugar in a microwave-safe bowl and cover it with a damp paper towel. Microwave for about 20 seconds, but don’t go much longer or the sugar may turn into a gooey, unusable substance.

Powdered sugar — The cornstarch contained in powdered sugar will cause it to form lumps over time, and there is little you can do to prevent it. Use a fork or a spoon to break up the lumps.

Raw sugar — As with white sugar, place hardened raw sugar on a tray in a 150-degree Fahrenheit oven for 15 to 30 minutes, then break up the clumps with a spoon. Be careful not to overheat raw sugar, as it may burn.

Bug Problem

Insects like sugar for the same reason we do — it is sweet. Unfortunately, a bug infestation can cause your sugar to become unusable.

If you find bugs or signs of bugs in your sugar, throw it away and start over with a new supply that you store in an airtight container. Here are some natural ways to keep ants and other insects out of your pantry:

• Determine where the bugs enter your home and wipe away their trail with warm soapy water.
• Place coffee grounds near the bug entrance points.
• Wash down pantry or cabinet shelves with white vinegar.
• Grow mint plants around the perimeter of your home to discourage ant colonies.
• Place cinnamon sticks in and around your windowsills and doorways as a deterrent.
• Sprinkle cayenne pepper around cracks and crevices where you have seen ant activity.
• Hang or place dried bay leaves in cabinets where sugar and other sweet treats are stored to keep bugs at “bay.”

In conclusion, sugar will last indefinitely when stored in proper containers in cool, dark, dry areas that are free of bugs. Sugar can get hard or clumpy, but it remains safe to eat. You can purchase sugar in large quantities and store in a food grade bucket until needed.

One word of caution: Do not store oxygen absorbers with sugar. Oxygen absorbers will cause the sugar to harden into a brick and to have an unpleasant, chemical taste.

Do you have any sugar-storing tricks? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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20 Roadside Emergency Items You Better Store In Your Car’s Trunk

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The trunk of my car is an amazing place. In it, you can find tools and equipment to deal with a variety of situations.

Most of what is there can and has helped me out in an emergency; but pretty much all of it has helped someone else, too, when they were facing problems of their own. I have found that helping others in a time of need is a great opportunity to share the message of preparedness and convert them to our way of looking at things.

I need to mention here that this is different than just being prepared to be caught in a blizzard, which I’ve written about previously. While many of the items overlap, there are things in my trunk which have nothing to do with surviving a blizzard. Besides, where I live, a blizzard could only happen if God gave us one by His miraculous power.

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So, what sorts of things can be found in my trunk?

1. Tools – While not huge, I have a fairly complete mechanics tool kit in the car. There are always situations where your car or the car of another needs to be repaired.

2. Hose repair kit – While not the best repair kit in the world, this splicing kit will get you back on the road again if you have a hose that pops.

3. Emergency belt kit – Once again, this isn’t the best repair going, but there’s a kit you can buy which allows you to put links together and make a belt of any length. While originally intended for V-belts, it works for multi-V, as well.

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4. Water (2 gallons) – Both for drinking and for overheated cars.

5. Radiator seal – For the obvious reason.

6. Oil, brake fluid and power steering fluid – Again, for the obvious reasons.

7. Toilet paper – A life essential. It’s amazing how many times someone is caught in the middle of nowhere, without a bathroom in miles.

8. Paper towels – Not quite as useful as TP, but a close second.

9. Emergency food – High-energy bars, nuts and even some canned goods for emergency meals. If you find someone who is stranded, they’ll be hungry, as well.

10. Blanket – For keeping them warm and dealing with shock. I have an old wool army blanket I use. Being wool, it still retains some insulating value, even when wet.

11. First–aid trauma kit – I carry a rather extensive first-aid kit, with enough in it to take care of fairly serious wounds. Car accidents, as well as accidents in the woods, generally require more than just an adhesive bandage. I have a tourniquet, large bandages and even butterfly closures as part of this kit. The water I carry is pure enough for irrigating a wound.

12. Personal survival kit – My personal (large) EDC kit, which doubles as both a survival kit and a get-home bag, is always in the car. It also contains a number of useful items for everyday needs, ranging from a spork, through a rain poncho to a phone charger.

13. Jumper cables – No matter how sophisticated cars get, these are still needed.

14. Tow strap – For towing a vehicle off the highway or to the nearest service station.

15. Flares and an emergency triangle – It’s always safer to let people know that there’s a reason why you’re pulled over to the side of the road.

16. Rope and bungee cords – For my own use or the use of others.

17. Duct tape – What emergency kit is complete without duct tape?

18. Tire inflator and compressor – Few people’s spare tires actually have enough air in them.

19. A good hydraulic jack – I don’t know about you, but I don’t trust those scissors jacks, and if you’ve never greased them, they’re hard to work with.

20. Fire extinguisher – I haven’t needed this often, but when you need one, you need one.

As you can see, this list is rather extensive. Some of those items are actually kits that are sizeable in and of themselves, containing a number of items. All told, the contents of my trunk give me the capability of dealing with a variety of situations, as well as taking care of myself and my car, should the need arise.

I’d like to reiterate that just about everything in my trunk has been used multiple times. Life just seems to hand us a lot of situations which go beyond what would be considered “normal.” As we all know, being ready for these situations requires going beyond what others do. Carrying along some emergency equipment in my car is a small price to pay, for the security it gives me.

Oh, and, all that equipment fits in the space under the back shelf, leaving the majority of my trunk open for carrying food home from the supermarket or materials home from the hardware store. I can even fold the backseat down and carry lumber home, just by moving one box to the side. So, I’m really not losing anything by carrying all that along with me.

What items would you add to our list? Share your tips in the section below:

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The Low-Maintenance Secret To A Weed-Free Garden

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If you ask a representative sample of gardeners what they least enjoy doing in the garden, you’re likely to get the same answer from most of them: weeding. In my own experience as a low-maintenance landscape designer and professional gardener, I can tell you that it doesn’t have to be this way.

Gardening shouldn’t be about slogging away day after day trying to kill the multi headed-hydras of the plant world. Weeding is by and large unnecessary if your garden is designed well, and although getting to the point of a nearly weed-free garden is an art and science in itself, sheet mulching for weed control is a good place to start.

Sheet mulching, or lasagna gardening as it’s also called, is a technique for smothering and permanently killing weeds in existing garden beds, building soil fertility and organic matter, and starting new garden beds. The basic idea is to create rich soil on the spot through compost building using alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen rich materials (see below). Now that you know the basics, let’s get down to the steps involved:

Step 1: Collect materials

To increase decomposition speed and create balanced compost during a regular composting process, it is recommended that you aim for a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of about 30 to 1 in the materials used. When sheet mulching, it’s fine if that ratio is a little off, but it’s still a good idea to shoot for a ratio somewhere between 30 to 1 and 100 to 1.

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Four to eight yards of mulch will be needed for about 100 to 200 feet square, which is about 6 to 10 bales of very rotten hay or seedless straw, for example. Ideas for materials: Nitrogen-rich materials include things like kitchen scraps and manure, while carbon rich materials include things like leaves, sawdust, cardboard, small branches and wood chips. A good base layer of cardboard can often be acquired from farm supply, appliance or bike stores.

Step 2: Water the soil
The evening or day before your sheet mulching project, water the soil at the site if the ground is not already moist. This helps kickstart microorganisms and will make it easier to ensure the bottom of your pile starts off moist.

Step 3: Cut existing vegetation

Simply cut the area to make putting down your layers easier and leave the debris where it is.

Step 4: Add soil amendments

To create a rich soil add organic fertilizers like greensand, seaweed powder, rock dust and other amendments directly to the existing soil. You might also consider doing a pH test and amending based on pH. For example, overly acidic soil can be amended with lime while overly alkaline soil can be amended with sulfur or gypsum.

Step 5: Break up compaction

Use a spading fork or broad fork to break up and loosen the soil and work in your amendments. This brings oxygen into the soil and helps prepare it for better water and root infiltration. Avoid mixing soil layers, which is bad for the soil ecology.

Step 6: First layer

The first layer is a nitrogen rich layer such as compost, composted manure or livestock bedding (or non-composted things like manure or restaurant kitchen scraps if you’ll be giving it a few months before using the bed). Moisten this first layer, but do not make it soggy.

Step 7: Smothering layer

The second layer is your smothering layer, usually a layer of cardboard or newspaper. I recommend cardboard, which is fairly easy to find and creates a thicker layer more easily. The bigger the pieces you can get, the better. The smothering layer pieces should overlap by at least 6 inches, if not a full foot, and it should be 1/8 of an inch thick. Water the material to keep it from blowing away and avoid walking on it so it doesn’t tear.

Step 8: Nitrogen layer 2

Self-explanatory: another layer similar to the first.

Step 9: Bulk carbon

Now it’s time to add a thick layer (8 to 12 inches) of carbon material such as weed-free straw or rotted hay. If you only have potentially seedy mulch, you can still use it, but in that case it’s important to add further layers on top to ensure the seeds rot rather than germinate. You can also sprinkle in seaweed powder or other nitrogen-rich material here, and water every few inches to dampen.

Step 10: Repeat

Continue adding layers as deep as you like.

Step 11: Compost layer

When you get to your second last layer, it’s time to add at least a couple of inches of compost, or several inches of compostable materials if you will be letting it compost on the spot for a few months prior to planting. This will be your seeding or planting medium.

Step 12: Final layer

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Finish it off with at least 3-6 inches of mulch that is completely weed- (and root-) free. Wood chips are great for this layer if possible since they last longer before decomposing. Leaves, rotted hay or seedless straw also will work.

Step 13: Plant

To plant seeds, separate the mulch aside into your desired planting patterns and plant away, leaving the mulch where you don’t plant. Sprinkle a small amount of mulch on top of the seed areas to prevent evaporation and increase seed germination. For plants, make sure to plant into the soil, and tuck the mulch right up to the plant once planted.

That’s all there is to creating low-maintenance, nutrient-rich, moisture-retaining garden beds. It might be a little more work to start, but it is more than worth it once you experience the freedom of a (mostly) weed-free garden full of healthy, disease-free plants. Even the few weeds that do manage to poke their way through or germinate among your plants will be easy to pull since the soil will be loose and moist (as long as you do double-reach, no-walk beds to avoid compaction). At this point, all you have to do is add more mulch each year, or gradually replace it with living mulches to maintain an even lower maintenance, weed-free garden.

Do you have any experience with sheet mulching or other time-saving methods for new garden bed creation? Please share your own experience and comments

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