He Criticized Red Light Cameras. The State Fined Him $500 – And Threatened Jail

He Criticized Red Light Cameras. The State Fined Him $500 – And Threatened Jail is republished from http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

Questioning red light cameras created an unexpected problem for Mats Järlström, who was fined $500 for “unlicensed practice of engineering” by the state of Oregon.

That sparked a lawsuit by the Institute for Justice on his behalf.

“Criticizing the government’s engineering isn’t a crime; it’s a constitutional right,” said attorney Sam Gedge of the Institute for Justice.

The Institute filed the federal lawsuit contending that Oregon’s Board of Examiners for Engineering and Land Surveying violated Järlström’s First Amendment rights by fining him. Järlström contended that many of the 25,000-plus red-light-running citations at one busy intersection in Beaverton are bogus because the yellow light is too short. He has an engineering background.

“Specifically, Järlström wishes to communicate about the mathematics behind traffic-light timing,” the Institute’s complaint states. “If he does so in Oregon, however, he will be exposed to government investigation and punishment for engaging in the unlicensed ‘practice of engineering.’”

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Järlström sent a number of emails to the city and the sheriff of Washington County with a formula backing up his allegations.

In some of the emails, Järlström called himself an “engineer” because he has a bachelor’s degree in engineering, The Oregonian reported. That prompted the board to investigate the Beaverton resident for “practicing engineering without a license.”

Fined for Using Math

After two years of investigation, the board fined Järlström $500 and ordered him to stop critiquing lights. They also warned that Järlström can face thousands of dollars in fines and years of jail if he did not stop.

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But that “unauthorized engineering” merely consisted of using a mathematical formula to analyze traffic lights’ operations, Gedge said. Järlström was prompted to start analyzing the lights after his wife received a ticket in 2013.

The Institute of Traffic Engineers asked Järlström to present his research at its national conference. He has also appeared on national media, including 60 Minutes.

A Free Speech Issue?

“Under the First Amendment, you don’t need to be a licensed lawyer to write an article critical of a Supreme Court decision, you don’t need to be a licensed landscape architect to create a gardening blog, and you don’t need to be a licensed engineer to talk about traffic lights,” Gedge said. “Whether or not you use math, criticizing the government is a core constitutional right that cannot be hampered by onerous licensing requirements.”

The lawsuit, Mats Järlström v. Christopher D. Aldridge et. All, asks the court to overturn the board’s ruling.

It looks as if unlicensed use of math is now illegal in Oregon.

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It’s The Quirky Medicinal Tree That Pharmaceutical Companies Use

It’s The Quirky Medicinal Tree That Pharmaceutical Companies Use Read more on: http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

The tamarack tree is an oddity. It is the duck-billed platypus of the tree world, refusing to be solidly classified into any one category. Part softwood, part hardwood, and completely unique, the tamarack is a distinctive component of the northern forest.

It’s useful for everyone from off-gridders to pharmaceutical companies and – not surprisingly – Native Americans made use of it, too.

Tamaracks are native to North America, primarily in Canada and in the United States, from the northern Great Lakes region to the Northeast. It has more than one name, often even within in the same region. Its Latin nomenclature is Larix laricina, and it is also known as a larch — eastern, black, red or American — or a hackmatack.

The word “tamarack” is said to be derived from a Native American word, but there are several theories as to the meaning, ranging from an Algonkian word meaning “snowshoe wood” to an Ojibwa word meaning “swamp tree.” Whichever origin is correct, both meanings are accurately descriptive of the tamarack tree.

Tamaracks do tend to prefer cool swamps, but are not exclusive to wet areas. They do not like shade, which can keep them from taking off in dense forests, but grow very quickly in the right conditions. Excellent for reforestation and erosion prevention, stands of tamaracks are often planted in areas that have been heavily logged.

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The wood of tamarack trees is strong yet supple, which probably made it an excellent candidate for Native American crafts such as snowshoes. Harder and heavier than most softwood trees and even some hardwoods, the coarse-grained tamarack can be milled into lumber, planking, poles, and posts. Its rot-resistant quality made it a common choice in shipbuilding, particularly the “knees,” which are large root formations that render an L-shaped piece of wood.

Tamaracks have enough similarities to other softwoods — such as bearing cones and needles — that they are classified as such. They are medium-sized trees, averaging around 50 feet tall, with a slender profile. Their branches are short, stiff and horizontal. Tamaracks bear small round seed cones in spring which open in fall and remain on the tree until the following year.

Image source: Pixabay.com

However, there are many distinct differences between tamaracks and typical softwoods. Before explaining how they are unlike others in the group, it might be useful to mention the basic differences between softwoods and hardwoods. Softwoods, also known as conifers or evergreens, are a classification of trees that includes species such as pine, spruce, fir, cedar and hemlock. They are differentiated from hardwoods, or deciduous trees, by their generally softer wood, their cones, and the fact that they retain their leaves — called “needles” because of their shape and texture — all year-round.

A Softwood Tree … For Firewood?

Tamaracks do not fit neatly into the softwood description. Not only are they hard enough to be used for lumber and building, but they are one of the few softwood species that are considered to be efficient as firewood. According to the heat classifications from online sources[1], tamarack is of moderate heat value, matching red maples and surpassing aspens.

The most notable difference between tamaracks and other softwoods, however, is the fact that they lose their needles in the fall. They are the only native North American softwood to do so, making them a truly unique tree. Their inch-long needles grow in clusters like pine needles and look almost like tiny dust brushes. They turn from green to yellow in fall, often much later than the leaves of true deciduous trees so that they offer a last blast of lovely autumn color.

But the tamarack is not just another pretty face. In addition to its uses for lumber, pulp, and firewood, tamarack is useful in traditional medicines, as an emergency edible, and as a source for resin. It also contains a chemical used in modern pharmaceuticals and an additive to foods.

The spring leaf shoots of tamarack trees can be cooked and eaten. Tea made from ground-up dried bark can be used to cure a variety of ills, from headache to dysentery to common colds and skin ailments. Resin can be chewed like gum or used in crafts.[2], [3]

One of the lesser-known but important modern uses of tamarack trees is for the extraction of the chemical arabinogalactan. This substance, sometimes called AG by the industries that use it, serves as a stabilizer, binder, sweetener and a source of fiber in foods. According to WebMD, it is used to treat “the common cold, flu, H1N1 (swine) flu, ear infections in children, and HIV/AIDS.” It’s even used to treat liver cancer and is used “to provide dietary fiber, lower cholesterol, and to boost the immune system.” [4]

Arabinogalactan is also used in veterinary medicine, cosmetics and commercial printing. It is extracted from tamarack trees using a water process, from byproducts of the lumber industry. [5]

Truly like no other, the tamarack tree is multifaceted and useful. Industries from wood to chemicals, as well as homesteaders, backwoodsmen and practitioners of traditional arts all can gain something useful from the North American tamarack tree.

Do you have a tamarack tree on your plot? How do you use it? Share your tips in the section below:

[1] http://ift.tt/2pE0q4h

[2] http://ift.tt/2pmNaOI

[3] http://ift.tt/2pDYngW

[4] http://ift.tt/2pmTpSo

[5] http://ift.tt/2pE0Esc

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Tomato Flowers But No Fruit, or No Tomato Flowers – 9 Troubleshooting Tips

The following post Tomato Flowers But No Fruit, or No Tomato Flowers – 9 Troubleshooting Tips was first published on http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

It's very frustrating when you have tomato flowers but no fruit, or big, beautiful tomato plants but no tomato flowers at all. Thankfully, most of the time you can get your tomatoes producing with a little extra TLC. In this post, we'll look at two tomato flower problems – no flowers at all, and tomato flowers but no fruit.

5 Common Causes of Tomatoes Not Flowering

So you have these beautiful, green, lush, tomato plants but no flowers – what gives? They are several factors that can keep your tomato plants from flowering.

#1 – Too Much Nitrogen

When I asked garden expert and commercial nursery owner, Emme Nicols, why tomatoes won't flower, she said, “Too much nitrogen. People are programmed to use the same fertilizer for everything and down south, that usually means 10-10-10. They put that stuff on everything. While excessive nitrogen will yield beautiful green leaves, it does very little in helping promote flowering.”

Tomatoes are heavy feeders, and require nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, plus many micro-nutrients. To produce flowers, they need less nitrogen and more phosphorus. The University of Missouri recommends a fertilizer low in nitrogen, high in phosphorus and with a medium to high amount of potassium.Try using a fertilizer such as Jobe's Organic Tomato Fertilizer to help promote flower production. You might also consider a foliar spray like Feed the Leaf Organic Blooms.

When you have rampant green growth from too much nitrogen and no flowers, you may want to prune some of the leaves and remove the suckers. (Do not prune determinate plants.) This way the plant can focus its energy on producing flowers and not feeding the leaves.

#2 – Too Hot

Tomatoes are native to subtropical Central America. They evolved to need it warm (but not too warm) to form their fruit . A temperature range of 65 to 75ºF (18-24°C) is ideal. During extreme heat, the tomatoes will stop flower production.

Be patient, and when the weather cools down a little, your tomatoes should start flowering again. Make sure you keep them watered and fertilized while waiting for the temperatures to fall.

#3 – Not Enough Water

Tomato plants need about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water each week to fruit, according to Ohio State University. The key to healthy tomato plants is to never let them dry out, or get flooded, but to keep the soil evenly moist. You can help your plants retain moisture by adding organic mulch and compost around the base of the plant.

#4 – Tomato Variety

Some tomatoes are known to be heavy producers and some are sought after for their big fruit. Big fruiting varieties like the Mortgage Lifter, will only produce an average of six tomatoes per plant for the entire season- that's it. (Editor's note: the strain of Mortgage Lifter I've been growing for several years produces many more than six fruits per plant.)

If you want a more abundant tomato harvest, I suggest a smaller heirloom variety like Red Brandywine. Red Brandywine is a heavy producer and offers a beautiful, medium size fruit. (Editor's note: I'm a paste tomato fan because we make so many homemade tomato products like salsa, sauce and soup. My all time favorites are Opalka and Amish Paste, which produce an abundance of meaty tomatoes.)

In addition to variety, the type of tomato plant you have will play a role in production as well.

• Determinate Tomato Plants are called so because they grow to a determined height. They are short, bushy and known to produce early in the season. Once fruiting is done, it's done – the plant will set no more fruit.
• Indeterminate Tomato Plants grow to an undetermined height (mine have grown over 10 ft!). They are long, leggy, and may set fruit until the first frost.

If you have a determinate tomato variety, your tomato season may already be over. If you have an indeterminate variety and you are not seeing flowers, or are seeing flowers but no fruit, continue reading to help determine the cause.

#5 – Not Enough Sun

Fruiting vegetables, such as tomatoes, require six-eight hours of sunlight per day to thrive and produce fruit. Less light may equal production issues, such as no flowers or flowers but no fruit. Container plants can be moved to a sunnier location, but if you garden doesn't get enough sun, fruiting plants will be less productive.

4 Common Causes of Tomato Flowers But No Fruit

What if your tomato plants have plenty of flowers, no visible health issues, but no fruit?

Tomatoes are self-pollinating, meaning they have both the male and female parts. This means that they may be able to pollinate and set fruit even without bees, but sometimes things go awry in the reproduction department. Some things we can fix, some we can't. Here are some of most common causes of tomato flowers but no fruit.

#1 – Blossom Drop

Blossom drop happens because it's too cold or too hot. According to Ohio State University:

Air temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures and extremely high temperatures. Blossom drop can occur in early spring when daytime temperatures are warm, but night temperatures fall below 55°F.

This phenomenon will occur during the summer as well, when daytime temperatures are above 90°F and night temperatures are above 75°F.

For high temps, a shade cloth may be used to block some of the afternoon sun and beat the worst of the heat. For cold temps, consider red plastic mulch sheeting (this can go over organic mulch and be reused for several years). You might also find a grow tunnel or floating row cover boosts temps enough to promote fruiting.

#2 – High Humidity

Tomatoes reproduce by their pollen falling from the stamen and pollinating the stigma. Generally this pollination happens by wind, movement and vibration of a bees wings.

High humidity can impede this this process by making the pollen too wet to freely transfer to it's destination. If you live in a climate with high humidity, you can help pollinate your tomato plants by gently tapping on the flowers or flower stems. Another option is to gently brush pollen from one flower to another with a small paintbrush.

#3 – Poor Air Circulation

As I mentioned above, flowers are self-pollinating and set pollen via movement. If the air flow around the tomato is hindered, the pollen can not fall and pollinate the stigma. To improve air circulation, try some of the following options:

• Remove some of the foliage, such as suckers.
• Don't plant your tomatoes too close. Space determinate varieties 12-24″ apart and indeterminate varieties 36-48″ apart.
• Trellis your tomato plants. Grow your tomatoes vertically to improve air circulation. (See tomato trellis ideas.)
• Don't plant next to a building or structure. Instead, plant your tomatoes where they have open air on all sides.

#4 – Too Many Flowers

Too many flowers on a tomato plant will cause competition for nutrients among the flowers. As a preservation method, the tomato plant will automatically abort and drop flowers. After your plant goes through a fruiting process, this problem should correct itself without intervention as long as the soil is good. If in doubt, try a fertilizer such as Jobe's Organic Tomato Fertilizer or Feed the Leaf Organic Blooms foliar spray, as mentioned above.

Don't Give Up on Homegrown Tomatoes!

There can be a learning curve to abundant tomato production, but the effort is worth it. Fresh picked tomatoes are one of the best treats available from the home garden.

Need more tomato growing tips? Check out these other posts on the site:

• Grow Tomatoes from Seed – Save Money, Get More Varieties
• How to Grow Lots of Tomatoes Organically, Plus Innovative Gardening Techniques
• 4 Reasons your Tomatoes Aren't Ripening
• 7 Steps to Stop Blossom End Rot & Get Rid of Black Bottomed Tomatoes

Questions, comments or some tips of your own you'd like to share? Please leave a comment below.

This post is by Amber Bradshaw of My Homestead Life. Amber is a environmentalist, garden and outdoor enthusiast. She is a wife, mother of three and owns a contracting business with her husband. Amber strives to get back into nature with a more sustainable and self-reliant lifestyle that fits a busy schedule and a tight budget.

She lives on the east coast with her family on a little over 1/4 acre and encourages others to do big things with small spaces.

When not out in the garden you can find her sharing her latest homestead tips at My Homestead Life, on Facebook, or on Pinterest.

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Bugout Bag Spring Cleaning | Revising Your Bug Out Bag Is A Must

The article Bugout Bag Spring Cleaning | Revising Your Bug Out Bag Is A Must is available on http://ift.tt/1Qfw8v0

As the ground starts to thaw and the world starts to become green again, it is time to review your bugout bag. I suggest that you inventory the contents of your bag with each season as different weather will require different contents. During your bugout bag spring cleaning, your focus should be all about moisture.

Bugout Bag Spring Cleaning

In most parts of the world, spring means rain. This additional moisture along with warmer temperatures brings new challenges and opportunities. By dropping some of your cold weather gear and adding some additional items, you can be sure that you have the best possible chance for survival in a bugout situation.

Moisture

In the springtime, moisture is your enemy. This means that you must have items in your bag to help combat that moisture. Having a compact poncho or rain suit is an absolute must. Remember that you can die from hypothermia in temperatures as high as 60F is your clothes are wet. Between the two, I prefer a rain suit over a poncho.

Pack as much wool as you can. Wool is one of the only fibers on earth that can keep you warm even when wet. This is a huge advantage in the spring. I always like to pack at least one extra pair of wool socks.

Any clothes you can pack that are water resistant are a good idea. Pay special attention to footwear. Your boots must stay dry under any circumstances. A good springtime boot is able to walk through water at least six inches deep. This will allow you to cross any shallow creeks or overflows. In a recent long distance challenge I was able to traverse 34 miles along a creek which had to be crossed several times, and I never got my feet wet.

Fire

When moisture is present, getting a fire starting or keeping it going can be much more difficult. This means you want to stock up on fire starters and fire assistance products. Bring Zippos, Bic lighters, waterproof matches, ferro rods, and fire lenses. Also bring char cloth, WetFire cubes, FireSticks, and cotton balls rubbed in petroleum jelly. If you have a pocket butane stove, it is a good idea to bring it with you. You might even want to pack dry firewood if you find some before the rains start.

Food

As temperatures warm up, there are several food sources that become available. Things are tough during the winter, but animals start to move in the spring. Fish become more active, so bringing a fishing kit or a pocket fisherman is a good idea. Mammals also become more active in the springtime. This opens up opportunities for trapping and hunting. Cordage becomes vital, and bringing professional snares or copper wire can help greatly with trapping. You also might want to bring nuts, jerky, or dried fruit for baiting your traps.

Shelter

One of the biggest challenges during spring showers is having a waterproof shelter. In my first survival challenge I built a completely waterproof roof, but built it too high. The 30 mph winds blew the rain in on me and it soaked me to the bone. To ensure your shelter is waterproof, you really need an emergency blanket or a tarp. These additions will ensure that rain will not be the reason your clothes get wet.

In Conclusion

To best prepare your bugout bag for spring, you should first think about any scenario in which you could get wet. If you make a few minor adjustments, you will be prepared for the worst Mother Nature has to offer. Be diligent in this area, and you will have the best opportunity for success.

Up Next: 8 Baking Soda Uses For Your Survival Garden To Try

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How To Build A Backyard Chicken Coop

How To Build A Backyard Chicken Coop was originally published to http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

Learn how to build a backyard chicken coop with this free chicken coop plan! We’ve made it easy by breaking it down into 10 easy steps to follow so you can build a chicken coop fit for your flock.

Backyard Chicken Coop For A Happy Flock

Other chicken coop plans may leave you stumped. And to help you we’ve simplified this easy chicken coop plan that is sure to have your hens housed in no time. If you’re looking for something more unique, head over here to get inspiration for your DIY chicken coop with these creative chicken coop designs and ideas.

What You’ll Need:

Materials

• 1 – 2 x 4 x 10
• 29 – 1 x 6 x 8
• 18 – 2 x 4 x 8
• 1 – ½ inch x2 feet x8 feet Particle Board or Plywood
• 3 sets of hinges
• 3 door handles
• 3 door latches
• Wood screws
• Nails to attach ½ flooring to floor frame

Tools

• Power drill with bit for wood screws
• Skill saw
• Miter saw
• Tape measure
• Pencil

Tip: Googles and gloves should always be worn when working with power equipment. Keep children at a safe distance.

Step 1: Build the Coop Frame

Floor Frame: The floor frame is 8 feet long by 2 feet wide with a center brace to support the flooring material. This is created with 2 x 4 lumber. You will need to cut three pieces of 2 x 4 lumber 21 inches long. Assemble the pieces of wood as shown above. Attach the frame pieces together using wood screws.

Attach the 2 x 4 x 8 particle board or plywood to the top of the frame to create the sub floor.

Left Wall Frame: Use a 2 x 4 lumber to build the left end wall frame of the coop. You will need two 24″ and two 17″ 2 x 4 pieces. Assemble as shown below and attach all the pieces with wood screws.

Right End ‘Cleanout’ Door Frame: You will also need a 2 x 4 lumber to build the right end cleanout door frame. You will need two 24″ and two 17″ 2 x 4 pieces. Attach the pieces of wood together and assemble as shown below.

Step 2: Fit Together The Frames

Attach each wall to the floor base frame and all corners and secure with wood screws.

Step 3: Build The Egg Door Frame

Use a 2 x 4 lumber to make the egg door frame. Follow the diagram below to cut your lumber. Attach the pieces together with wood screws. Make two of these, one for each end of the chicken coop. There is a 1 ½ space between the top of the angled pieces for a 2 x 4 x 8 to fit in. This space will be the ridge post and what the roof joists will be connected to.

Step 4: Build The Roof Frame

Attach the roof joists every 24 inches on center. Do not to place a joint where the roof door will be. The opening should be 43 ¾ inches as measured from the inside of the end joist and the middle joist.

Step 5: Attach Siding

Use a 1 x 6 lumber for the siding. Attach the siding to the frame with wood screws. Do not put siding on the right end wall and do not attach siding to the left end gable. Attach siding to the right end gable.

Step: 6 Build The Cleanout Door

The cleanout door frame measures 24″ by 24″. It is constructed of 1 x 6 lumber. You will need two 24-inch boards and two 13-inch boards. Secure the frame with wood screws. When the frame is complete, attach 1 x 6 siding.

Attach the hinges to the door and fasten to the right end of the chicken coop. Attach the door handle.

Step 7: Construct The Egg Door

Construct the egg door with 1 x 6 lumber as shown in the image above. Attach hinges to the bottom of the egg door and then attach to the left side wall.

Step 8: Construct The Roof Door

Using this diagram, build a frame for the roof door. The frame measures 48″ wide and 19 ¼” tall. Construct the frame using 2 x 4s. Cut two 41-inch and two 19 ¼-inch boards. Attach hinges and secure to the roof.

Step 9: Build Nesting Boxes

You can create a nesting box from scrap 1 x 6 lumber. Cut two 21-inch and two 12-inch boards and fit together into a box. Set the box on the floor right under the egg door for easy access.

Step 10: Attach Latches On The Doors

Keep your chicken secure from predators by attaching latches on each door.

Want another backyard chicken coop plan to follow? Check out this video from OFF GRID with DOUG and STACY:

That’s all, my fellow homesteaders! The chicken coop is complete! I hope this post helped you build a shelter for your chickens. Happy Homesteading!

Will you use this plan to build your own backyard chicken coop? Let us know in the comments below.

Want another project to make your chicken-keeping easier? Check out here 10 Easy To Build Chicken Watering Stations to keep your flock well hydrated!

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This post was originally published in October 2014 and has been updated for quality and relevancy.

Featured Image Via MyPetChicken

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Pearl Harbor Survivor, 94, Denied Hearing Aids By VA

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The last living Pearl Harbor Survivor in Philadelphia was denied hearing aids because of a paperwork snafu at the Department of Veterans Affairs.

The hearing aids were sitting on the table in front of Alexander Horanzy, 94, when he was told the VA would not pay for them. Previously, Horanzy had been told he was approved for hearing aids and even was tested and fitted for them.

“So I drove him up there and they wouldn’t give them to him,” Horanzy’s granddaughter, Joyce Fiore, told KYW News Radio. “They said his medical records were lost in a fire. They had them right there, so he was denied.”

Said Horanzy, “I was so darn mad I couldn’t even talk. My granddaughter was there with me, so we just walked out.”

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Horanzy almost died of malaria 70 years ago while fighting on New Guinea in World War II, the Great Generation Foundation reported. Before that, he had witnessed the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor as a young Army private.

Despite that service, Horanzy was told he was ineligible for hearing aids because the Department of Veteran Affairs was unable to locate his paperwork.

Horanzy needs the aids to get through his day. He was unable to hear the speeches and presentations at one of the final Pearl Harbor Veterans’ reunions in December 2016.

“He can’t talk on the phone much and [hear] the TV,” Fiore said. “It’s very hard for him.”

The Greatest Generation Foundation has set up a Go Fund Me Page to pay for the aids. The page had collected $7,868 as of April 27. That means Horanzy will get the hearing aids, which cost $6,500. The website says he was denied hearing ads by the VA because of “lost medical records that don’t support his past medical history

There are a few thousand surviving Pearl Harbor veterans.

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15 Irreplaceable Tools That Helped The Pioneers Survive

15 Irreplaceable Tools That Helped The Pioneers Survive is available on http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

Artist: Walt Curlee

Americans today have it made compared to the pioneers. When something breaks, we can just drive down to our local home hardware store and pick up what we need. We even can order online and wait for the item(s) to arrive on our doorstep!

It certainly wasn’t that easy for the pioneers. Whether they had just arrived in the New World, were traveling West in hopes of grabbing some land, or were settled on their farm, there were few “mercantiles” or general stores to be had.

How did they manage to survive? Good old ingenuity for one, a few working skills, and a few tools made all the difference.

Let’s examine 15 of their most useful tools.

Building and Construction Tools

No matter where they ended up, the pioneers had to build their own shelter. While some homes were made from sod, many more were made from wood. This made saws and axes both valuable and common. Of course, if you could afford to pay the mill to cut your logs, you were fortunate, but most people simply cut their own logs to make cabins to live in and barns for their livestock. Hatchets and axes did any work that saws couldn’t.

Hammers were vital. Hammers can split logs (with a wedge, which was another important tool), work metal, break rocks, and, of course, hammer nails. These ancient but super-flexible tools came in several types and sizes, depending on your need.

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Shovels, or spades as they once were called, were another fundamental tool. Holes needed to be dug to support log cabins, turf was often used as roofing material, and a spade would be necessary to cut out those blocks.

Many of the early settlers had root cellars that would preserve food as the temperature was more stable. Even a small root cellar required a whole lot of digging! Pioneers also used shovels for the same things we do today — planting vegetable gardens, cleaning out stalls, and planting trees.

Farming and Planting Tools

Every pioneer would need to do at least some planting in order to survive, even if they only wanted to grow food for themselves and their livestock to survive through the winter.

Therefore, almost every farmer relied on his plow. Whether drawn by hand or pulled by an animal, a featured, pioneers, survival, tools, was an absolute necessity. John Deere invented the first steel plow blade in 1837, but long before that, people used wood or sharp rocks for plow blades.

Hoes were another invaluable tool for farmers. Crops involve much more than just seeds and water; weeds need to be removed. With a sharp hoe, a person can go at a slow walking pace and remove weeds.

Scythes were great for those who could not afford the mechanical horse drawn crop reapers. These slightly curved blades enabled a person to cut crops or clear tall grass and weeds from a standing position.

A tool that many people today are unaware of, which enabled grains to be removed from the husk, is the flail. It’s a simple tool, but quite effective. A flail consists of one larger stick that the person would hold, connected by a chain or hooks to a shorter stick. Harvested grain crops, such as wheat, were placed in a pile, and then the person would beat (thresh) the grain with the small stick, until the husk surrounding the grain fell off.

Household Tools

Artist: Hanne Lore Koehler

People of today have it made in the simple process of day-to-day cooking and cleaning.

Washboards were, for many years, exactly as the name implies — nothing more than pieces of rounded wood strips, nailed to a frame. It sounds very primitive, but it must have been in improvement over beating your clothing with sticks or rubbing them over rocks in the river!

Spinning wheels changed the wool from sheep or cotton balls into fibers that could be used to make clothing and blankets. Spinning wheels were used in Europe since at least the year 1250, so it was a common tool that almost every woman knew how to operate.

Once you had the wheat threshed, you needed to grind it into flour. This was done with a little device that some of us today think of as a meat grinder. Pioneer women used this same type of hand-powdered device to grind their grains to make flour.

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Let’s not forget the lowly needle. While many of the needles used by the pioneer women are pretty much the same as the ones we use today, they had a much larger variety that was needed. In addition to the regular clothing that needed to be made or repaired, they had to sew their own blankets, in addition to sew horse blankets and leatherwork. Most saddles would be made by professionals, but the repairs to straps or bridles could be done if one had a large needle.

While most pioneers were very resourceful and independent, they cherished nearby neighbors who could be counted on in a pinch. Common tasks were often shared by neighbors or nearby family members, knowing that when the need arose, they also would benefit from this shared labor. It was not uncommon to see neighbors get together to help build a house for newlyweds or to help out with household chores when a family was sick or having difficulties.

Hunting Tools and Weapons

One of the most useful tools that every pioneer owned was a shotgun. A shotgun was used for protection and as their main source of killing animals for meat. Some of these hardy mountain men also kept pistols as a backup, but the shotgun or rifle was the weapon of choice.

A hunting knife also was an essential tool, and most pioneers had several of them. A good hunting knife was priceless, as it could handle almost every chore or need. It could be used to kill in close quarters, to skin and gut the animal, and to hack off a few branches for wood if necessary. Knives are one of the most versitle tools around, which would explain why many pioneers, like the indigenous people, had special places to store them so they wouldn’t be misplaced.

Hatchets also were sometimes used in self defense. Many pioneers kept both a hunting knife and a small hatchet on their person at all times.

What tools would you add to our list? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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