Thursday, 31 August 2017

An Off-Grid Life With Only 1 Bill A Month

An Off-Grid Life With Only 1 Bill A Month See more on: http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

Every off-gridder wants to live a debt-free, bill-free life. Mark Reinhardt isn’t there yet – but he is very close.

About five years ago Mark ditched his fulltime job, sold his house, and purchased a sailboat with the goal of escaping the “rat race” and sailing the Caribbean. Incredibly, he went from working 60 hours a week and getting nowhere to working three months a year and going everywhere.

And he has only one bill a month: his cell phone bill.

Mark is this week’s guest on Off The Grid Radio as he explains how off-gridders can live on about $5,000 a year.

Mark – who wrote a book, “Off The Grid: How I Quit the Rat Race and Live for Free Aboard a Sailboat” — also tells us about:

  • His boat, and how it helps him live a unique off-grid life.
  • His journeys, and what he does to stay calm during dangerous storms on the water.
  • His food, and what he regularly eats when he’s miles from shore.

Mark also explains how he avoids marina fees.

Don’t miss this inspiring story about an off-gridder who is living out his dream!

This Article Was Originally Posted On offthegridnews.com Read the Original Article here

Learn More Here: An Off-Grid Life With Only 1 Bill A Month

Wednesday, 30 August 2017

Hickory Nuts: The Wild-And-Abundant Fall Food You Better Grab Before They’re Gone

The following article Hickory Nuts: The Wild-And-Abundant Fall Food You Better Grab Before They’re Gone is available on http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

Image source: suburbanforagers.com

If you are looking for a tasty, calorie-dense wild food, you can’t go wrong with hickory nuts. The sweet, fatty raw meat of a hickory nut can be eaten right out of its hard shell or cooked. The nuts will keep in a cool dry spot for several months, or you can freeze them for later use.

Hickory nuts come from deciduous hardwood trees that are found in North America and Asia. The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Trees lists 10 different varieties of hickory trees. A few varieties produce bitter-tasting nuts, but the shagbark and shellbark trees are known for their good taste.

Our seventh president, Andrew Jackson, famously was nicknamed “Old Hickory” due to his tough nature, although the real-life hickory nuts are easily crack-able. He also had quite a few shagbarks surrounding his home, the Hermitage.

The shagbark hickory (Carya ovata), found in the eastern United States, has a shaggy bark that easily peels away in strips. Other varieties include the pecan (the Carya illinoinensis), the shellbark or kingbark (the Carya laciniosa), the mockernut (the Carya tomentosa), the sand hickory (the Carya palida) and the red hickory (the Carya ovalis).

The shell of the hickory nut is encased in a green or greenish-brown husk that you can easily peel off after the fruit has fallen from the tree. The nuts begin to drop from hickory trees in early fall, and since you will face some stiff competition from squirrels, it is a good idea to gather your supply as soon as possible.

Gather hickory nuts in a bucket or sack, removing the husk as you go. Consider saving the husks for use as mulch in your garden.

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At home, sort through your collection, discarding any nuts that have a dry, wrinkled appearance or that have discoloration or holes in their shells. Holes are an indication of insect infestation in the nut.

Shelling the Nuts

There are many ways to crack open the tough hickory shell, ranging from the use of a heavy-duty v-shaped hinged nutcracker to the use of a rock or a hammer. Avoid using a standard lever-type nutcracker, however, because it might crunch the tender nutmeat into fragments. Also, do not use your teeth!

Story continues below video

Before cracking, soak the nuts in warm water for about an hour. This process causes the shell to flex and/or split, making the cracking process easier. The amount of pressure you exert to crack the nut properly will vary, and it may take a while to get your technique down. To prevent shell pieces from flying around, cover the nut with a cloth before hitting it with a hammer or rock.

Use a nut pick to extract the meat from the broken shell. You can save shell fragments for your bird feeder. Birds are good at finding small fragments of meat left on broken shell pieces.

Eating the Nutmeat

You can enjoy hickory nuts fresh from the shell as a satisfying snack. Nine hickory nuts, or about one ounce, provide 186 calories, 3.6g protein, 5.2g carbohydrates, 18.2g fat, 1.8g fiber, as well as traces of magnesium and thiamine.

There are other ways to enjoy the nuts:

Roasting. Spread the nutmeats in a cookie sheet or shallow pan and place them in a 200-degree Fahrenheit oven. Roast the nuts until they are a golden color.

Nut butter. Grind the roasted nutmeats in a blender, along with enough safflower oil and salt to achieve the desired consistency and taste.

Baking. You can substitute hickory nuts for pecans or walnuts in dessert and bread recipes.

Here is a hickory nut pie recipe to try:

Ingredients

  • 3 eggs, slightly beaten
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1 cup white Karo syrup
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 cup hickory nuts, chopped
  • 1 unbaked pie shell

Directions

Mix the eggs, vanilla, sugar, syrup and butter together. Fold in the nuts. Pour the batter into the pie shell and bake in a 400-degree Fahrenheit oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake for 40 more minutes.

What advice would you add on harvesting and using hickory nuts? Share your thoughts in the section below:

If You Like All-Natural Home Remedies, You Need To Read Everything That Hydrogen Peroxide Can Do. Learn More Here.

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How to Make a Tuna Oil Lamp

How to Make a Tuna Oil Lamp Read more on: Total Survival

Have you ever heard of a tuna oil lamp? A tuna oil lamp is a light source that uses the oil from a typical tuna can.

Tuna Oil Lamp: Surviving The Night With A Can Of Tuna

Survival/emergency situations always push us to be ever more resourceful. When darkness catches you in the middle of nowhere and you don’t have a flashlight, you can turn to the food you brought along. You’re definitely in luck when you have a can of tuna. The vegetable oil is flammable so it can be used as fuel for your candle. Here’s a tutorial from The King of Random on how to make a tuna oil lamp.

Here’s what you will need:

  • a can of tuna in vegetable oil
  • paper towel or cotton string
  • matches or any fire starter
  • garden scissors or hammer and nail

Step 1. Put a hole in the middle of the tuna can

Put A Hole In The Middle Of The Tuna | How to Make a Tuna Oil Lamp
You can use a nail and hammer, scissors or any sharp pointed tool that can do the job. Make it just right for a small piece of tissue, made into a roll, to pass through the hole.

Step 2. Cut a small portion of tissue paper and roll it into the shape of a wick

Cut A Small Portion Of Tissue Paper And Roll It Into The Shape Of A Wick | How to Make a Tuna Oil Lamp
Cut away a small piece of tissue paper from the roll and roll it into a wick. The length of the tissue roll will depend on the size of the tuna can you have with you. If you have a piece of string, well and good.

Step 3. Insert the paper/string into the hole

Insert The Paper/String Into The Hole | How to Make a Tuna Oil Lamp
Insert the tissue roll or the string into the hole of the tuna can, making sure it reaches the bottom. This will ensure you are able to use up every ounce of vegetable oil in the tuna can. Bacon grease is also a great source of fuel.

Step 4. Use any fire starter to light up the wick

Use Any Fire Starter To Light Up The Wick  | How to Make a Tuna Oil Lamp
Now you have a candle for illumination and warmth. You may also use it to cook some food, and yes you can eat the tuna later. The oil in tuna can last for two to three hours.

Check out the full video tutorial below by the King of Random:

Resourcefulness, ingenuity (even if you have not thought of this yourself) is a great skill for one to survive whatever challenges is in their way. Of course, there are other DIY survival candles to light up the dark, but nothing beats being prepared. Train hard and practice your survival skills regularly so when the SHTF, you can definitely have an edge over those who didn’t.

Did you like our tuna oil lamp tutorial? Let us know in the comments section below!

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Editor’s Note: This post was originally published on September 2015 and has been updated for quality and relevancy.

This Article Was First Found at survivallife.com Read The Original Article Here

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Barn Cats — 7 Myths Debunked | Homesteading

Barn Cats — 7 Myths Debunked | Homesteading See more on: http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

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If you have a homestead or farm, then you most likely also have barn cats. In fact, barn cats are as much a staple of the barnyard as livestock. Barn cats help keep the barn clean of mice and rats, which can save you the arduous task of trying to get rid of them yourself. However, over the years I’ve heard a lot of negative opinions and incorrect care “tips” about the barn cat.

Barn Cats: The Fact and the Fiction

Having grown up with barn cats myself — and still having them — I find that people are full of misconceptions about them. So, let’s go over some of what people are saying about the barn cat. Then you can look at what I, and others, actually experience with these very helpful and really necessary part of your homestead.

You Can’t Have Tame Barn Cats — They Won’t Do Their Job

This thought is far from factual. A feral cat will do no better or worse than a tamed cat in the barn. As a matter of fact, the friendlier that you can get your barn cats, the easier it will be for you. This is especially true if you want to get them rabies shots or need to take care of an injury. It will also be easier on the cats if you need to catch them, as live trapping can be traumatic for the cat. In addition, it can also make an already unfriendly feral cat even more unfriendly. Not to mention angry! This puts the person who needs to handle the cat at risk of being torn up by four paws full of sharp claws.

If I Want Good Barn Cats, I Need to Let Mine Have Their Own Litters

Again, false. If you have a cat who you feel has especially good genes that you really want to keep going, then you might want to let her have a litter. That way, you can try to keep those genetics on farm. Keep in mind, however, that barn cats tend to inbreed. This means that after a few generations, kittens tend to become sickly. This is counter productive to your desire to have good, healthy animals.

With that said, if you really feel that you have a good cat, male or female, whose genetics you want to keep going, allow them only a few litters. Select one or two from the litters who will keep the lines going that you want, then spay or neuter the rest. But, with this route, you’ll always have to be vigilant that inbreeding doesn’t occur. Even if all your other cats are fixed, this can still be an issue. You’ll have to be more hands on than you will probably want to be. Plus, you’ll have to watch for heat cycles so there isn’t an “accident.” Not to mention the continual spay/neuter of the litters will be expensive. But, there is another, better alternative.

barn cats spay neuter

barn cats spay neuter

Many shelters now are offering barn cats for adoption. These are usually cats that are feral or may be a bit friendly, but they’re still not quite house cat material. Because of this, the shelters look for barn homes for these cats. These cats are usually spayed or neutered and may even have shots. Because some shelters have so many of these hard-to-place cats, I have seen them offered for adoption at a reduced cost. Sometimes they’re even free! You may have to prove that you have shelter for them as well as any other requirements that the shelter might have, but then you have the satisfaction of giving a “home to the homeless.” With this method, there’s also no worry about inbreeding or litters, as they are coming to you already spayed/neutered.

As there is usually no shortage of the availability of these cats, you can usually always find some when you need them. With adoption, you keep your barn filled with cats without contributing to overpopulation! The shelter (or rescue) doesn’t have any available? Let them know that you are looking for animals for your barn, and you’re open to ferals who need to be placed. Then ask if they can contact you if and when they have any available.

If I Feed My Barn Cats They Won’t Do Their Job, So I Let Them Fend for Themselves

Once again, from my own (and others) experiences with barn cats, this is a total myth. In fact, starving your barn cats may not only encourage them to run away — especially if they find someplace else that puts food out — it could get you into a bit of trouble as well.

Just because you feed your cats, that doesn’t mean that they won’t do their jobs as the rodent hit squad of your barn and grounds. In fact, quite the opposite. A well-fed cat means a happy, healthy cat that will get out there and hunt. And, from my experiences, it may encourage them to leave your wild birds alone.

If I Let My Barn Cats in the House, They Won’t Want to Go Back to the Barn

Most people will have their barn cats stay in the barn. However, once in a while the kids may have a favorite (or maybe even one of the adults may have a favorite). But let’s say you don’t really want an indoor cat. Not to fear! Letting your barn cat come inside won’t ruin it for the barn. While once it gets a taste of indoor life, it may prefer it, if you get the cat into a routine of bringing it in for a few hours then taking it back out, the cat will learn. Then, you may even have a cat who decides that an hour indoors is enough. After the hour, they may want to go back out voluntarily. When that happens, let the cat out even if you wanted it in longer. Don’t force it, or the cat won’t want to come back.

If, for some reason, you need to bring a barn cat in for medical reasons — especially during fall/winter transitions — watch the weather. If the cat has been in recovery for weeks or months during warm weather and has missed that natural temperature transition, don’t just put him out if the weather is freezing or sub zero. The cat’s system will not have had time for the system to adapt to the drastic changes. Because of this, either keep your cat in till spring, or on the first nice day, let it our for a short time. Once the cats has briefly been exposed, bring it back in. Do this over and over, leaving the cat out a little longer each time. Within a month or so, the cat will probably be adapted to the cold enough. Then they can go out to the barn full-time once again.

I Don’t Need to Put Out Water…They Can Find Plenty Around the Property!

Although you may have (or think you may have) plenty of water sources around your property, always, always have a pot or two of fresh, clean water out for your barn cats. Even in the winter! While you may see one of your cats drinking from the nearest mud puddle, they still need clean water available to them at all times. I normally put one pot of water around their food. You can also put another in one of their other favorite hang out spot. Don’t forget to scrub the water pots out every so often, as they can get quite dirty and scummy on the inside. Also be sure to change the water daily.

Feral Barn Cats Can Never Make Good House Cats

If you have a lot of patience, some feral cats actually will make excellent house cats. In fact, some of my best, most loving house cats began feral. If you get a barn cat as a little kitten, it’s quite easy to make it a household pet. However, if you get them as juveniles or adults it will take more patience and work on your end.

It can take time to get barn cats to trust, as well as time for them to get used to the indoors. Lastly, it takes time for them to realize that you actually pose them no danger. Don’t make fast moves towards them or force them to be picked up or pet. Work on the cat’s time, but also continually talk to them, call them by name, and give them treats. Eventually, they’ll come around. Some take as little as weeks, but others can take a month or more.

barn cats house cats

barn cats house cats

Now, all that said, there are some cats that — no matter what — do not want to be a house cat. Regardless of what you do, they’ll be unhappy if stuck inside. If this is the case, and it’s still a cat that you really want to make a pet out of, nothing is stopping you from making friends with the cat as he lives his life happily outdoors. And who knows? Maybe someday your favorite barn cat will want to be inside with its favorite human!

I Can’t Bring A Barn Cat Indoors…..He’ll Mess All Over My House!

Again, this couldn’t be further from the truth. I personally have never had a barn cat refuse a litter box when provided. Just make sure that the box is in a place where the cat can see it. (You can always move it later.) If you’re able to physically pick the cat up, you can also take it right up and into the litter box.

The Perks of a Good Barn Cat

So, there you have it. Some of the most common myths of keeping barn cats. Good barn cats are worth their weight in gold. If treated well, they’ll help keep your barn and/or property clean of rats and mice. Although they seem quite independent, as you can see, barn cats still need some care and attention. Treat them well, and your barn cats will reward you with years of pest control!

Did we miss any barn cat myths you’ve had to debunk? Let us know in a comment below!

Rats in your barn not your only homestead nuisance? Check out this article for 12 natural ways to get rid of flies!

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North Korea Fires Missile Over Japan; China Warns Situation ‘Approaching A Crisis’

The following article North Korea Fires Missile Over Japan; China Warns Situation ‘Approaching A Crisis’ is courtesy of Total Survival

The North Korean government deliberately fired a missile over Japan Monday to wreak havoc and create divisions between America and its allies, experts say.

The ballistic missile flew over Japan and landed in the Pacific.

“If North Korea had launched the missile to the south, the U.S. might have viewed it as a considerable provocation and responded accordingly,” Japanese foreign minister Taro Kono told reporters in Tokyo.

Instead, the North Koreans took an action that likely would not provoke a confrontation. The missile was identified as an intermediate-range Hwasong-12, which would be capable of hitting the U.S. territory of Guam.

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China foreign ministry spokeswoman Hua Chunying said the situation was “at a tipping point, approaching a crisis.”

The missile test was “perfectly calibrated to create political mischief,” Stephen Haggard, a Korea Expert at the University of California at San Diego, told The Washington Post.

“The launch shows how Kim Jong Un is weirdly conservative, calibrating tests so that they are difficult to counter, flying just beneath the radar of a required kinetic response,” Haggard said.

Others agreed.

“This is not the action of a country that is interested in showing restraint or in creating a glide-path to dialogue, at least not on our terms,” said James Schoff of the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace.

The North Koreans fired missiles over Japan in 1998 and 2009, although those were satellite launches that were announced beforehand.

“In a way, it’s kind of a trial balloon,” Michael Elleman, a missile expert at the International Institute for Strategic Studies, told The Post. “If we overfly Japan, what happens? If the blowback isn’t too significant, they will feel more comfortable with launching a Hwasong-14 to a good distance to validate its performance on a normal trajectory.”

The Hwasong-14 is a larger missile capable of hitting U.S. soil.

“A missile launch across Japan is an outrageous act that poses an unprecedented, grave and serious threat, and significantly undermines the peace and security of the region,” said Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe.

What do you think the Trump administration should do? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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Tuesday, 29 August 2017

IKEA Releases Free Designs For A Garden Sphere That Feeds A Neighborhood

IKEA Releases Free Designs For A Garden Sphere That Feeds A Neighborhood is available on http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

Making something of value for your neighborhood may seem like a tough job, even an impossible one for some. But this idea from IKEA might just prove to go the distance. The Garden Sphere you can see in the photo or The Grow Room as it is called, can be successfully used to grow food. The innovative design and smart use of space will provehelpful in developing small sustainable food supplies in urban areas. The product was made in an IKEA lab called Space10, by architects Sine Lindholm and Mads-Ulrik Husumto. The people behind this concept envision their approach to products like this DIY garden like printers, once rare but with time accessible in every household. That is why they released the designs for free to everyone interested. Now all you need to build this is a hammer, some screws and plywood. Check it out in closer detail on this next link.

The Growroom was designed by Space10 and architects Sine Lindholm and Mads-Ulrik Husum. And all it takes to complete the 17-step, architect-designed DIY garden of your dreams is plywood, a visit to your local community workshop, rubber hammers, metal screws and some patience.

Space10 writes:

Local food represents a serious alternative to the global food model. It reduces food miles, our pressure on the environment, and educates our children of where food actually comes from. … The challenge is that traditional farming takes up a lot of space and space is a scarce resource in our urban environments.

The Growroom …is designed to support our everyday sense of well being in the cities by creating a small oasis or ‘pause’ architecture in our high paced societal scenery, and enables people to connect with nature as we smell and taste the abundance of herbs and plants. The pavilion, built as a sphere, can stand freely in any context and points in a direction of expanding contemporary and shared architecture.

This Article Was Originally Posted on goodshomedesign.com Read The Original Article here

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Eating Wild Animals You Never Thought You Could Eat

Eating Wild Animals You Never Thought You Could Eat was originally published to Total Survival

Image source: Pixabay.com

Humans, for the most part, raise and eat vegetarian animals. From an agricultural perspective, that makes sense. A cow fed on grass is a more efficient way of producing meat than raising a meat-eating animal on meat, only to later harvest it for meat.

Animals that would otherwise eat a meat-based diet in the wild, like chickens or farmed fish, are fed corn and soy and labeled “vegetarian-fed” as though it somehow made the meat more desirable. In reality, though, eating corn-raised salmon and chicken deprived of their natural prey (bugs, frogs and even rodents) actually results in meat that’s less flavorful and less healthy, containing fewer omega-3 fatty acids.

Some animals, such as deer, are opportunistic omnivores. Deer have been observed eating birds, which scientists speculate is “a source of protein to help them grow antlers.” Scientists conducting a forensic experiment with human remains actually documented deer eating human meat when they had access to it in the wild.

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Other cultures around the world have a history of eating meat-eating animals. In modern America, it’s a taboo to eat dog meat, but many other places in the world regularly consume dog as a part of their diet without ill health effects. I’m not advocating eating the family pet. That’s not a part of our culture. But when thinking about whether or not there are health consequences to eating meat-eating animals, it’s good to note that it’s common practice in other parts of the world and does not cause harm to the humans eating them.

Bears are popular to hunt in many parts of the United States, and while their diet does include roots and berries, they’re putting on their winter weight with meat. Bears are omnivores, just like pigs. Both bear meat and pig meat tend to taste a lot like what they were eating in the few weeks before they are harvested. Pigs raised domestically are often intentionally fed a specific diet in the six weeks before harvest, such as whey or apples. With bears or wild boars, you don’t have that luxury.

Smart hunters will take wild boar in areas where there’s an abundance of food that will make their meat taste sweet, such as windfall apples. Bears, on the other hand, especially near urban areas, are likely to have been eating anything they can find. Bears near good fishing holes, for example, often have fishy-tasting meat.

Hunters who have cooked coyote describe it as a fatty dark meat that tastes a bit like overcooked duck. They note that made into sloppy Joes or covered in BBQ sauce and served like a pulled pork sandwich, you’d never taste the difference.

In the American South, raccoon is still a reasonably popular food. It’s said to taste a bit like dark meat chicken. Raccoon meat is mainstream enough that the famous chef Alton Brown wrote about how to cook it. It’s become less popular to hunt because of a fear of rabies, but he notes that as a general rule rabid animals will not be out feeding. If you find a raccoon busting into your chicken coop, grab the .22 and you could be eating well tonight.

But what about rabies, you say? Rabies is no joking matter, and it’s a serious disease that can kill humans and animals alike. Obviously, never eat an animal you know to be infected with rabies. Nonetheless, so long as the meat is thoroughly cooked, the rabies pathogen is killed. According to the Louisiana department of health, the main risk is to the person processing the raw meat, especially if he or she comes into contact with the salivary glands, brain or spinal cord. Be careful processing any animal, and use good sanitary practices.

Any hunted animal could potentially be contaminated with rabies. The incubation time is generally 90 days or less from exposure, but 90 days is a long time to carry the pathogen without showing any symptoms. Rabies, in reality, is a rare disease, but one that you could catch just as easily from raw deer meat in an animal not displaying symptoms.

In times of hardship, it’s good to know that meat is meat. So long as it’s cooked completely and thoroughly, just about any meat can provide a meal, be it coyote, bear, wild boar, raccoon or just about anything else. Clean it carefully, cook it fully and enjoy the protein.

What are your favorite wild meats? Share your tips in the section below:

This Article Was Originally Posted On offthegridnews.com Read the Original Article here

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The Alzheimer’s Antidote – Treatment for Alzheimer’s and Dementia

The blog post The Alzheimer’s Antidote – Treatment for Alzheimer’s and Dementia Read more on: http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

If you're concerned about your brain health or the health of someone you care about, The Alzheimer's Antidote is worth a read.

The Alzheimer's Antidote – Using a Low-Carb, High-Fat Diet to Fight Alzheimer's Disease, Memory Loss and Cognitive Decline” provides real options to those desperately in need. We don't have to resign ourselves or our loved ones to living as a shadow of ourselves. Through proven diet and lifestyle changes, we can dramatically improve quality of life, either by avoiding illness or reversing damage that has already been done.

Are the changes easy? For most of us, probably not. The Standard American Diet is killing our brains, and it's addictive. The more important question is what's it worth not to lose who you are?

Why am I talking about Alzheimer's on a homesteading site? A well functioning mind and body make self-reliance activities a lot easier to tackle. I know many of my readers are getting older, and I'm not getting any younger. Mom always said it was hell to get old. In the end, her body gave out but her mind was still sharp. My grandmother was the opposite. She was still able to get around, but just sat, confused. I want better options for me and my loved ones, and you and those you care about, too. I received a copy of this book for review. As always, my opinions are my own.

Alzheimer's vs Dementia

Before I get into the book, I want to include a quick note about alzheimer's vs dementia. The Alzheimer's Association notes:

Dementia is a general term for a decline in mental ability severe enough to interfere with daily life, for instance, memory loss.

Alzheimer's is a type of dementia that causes problems with memory, thinking and behavior.

So – all Alzheimer's cases are a form of dementia, but not all dementia is due to Alzheimer's disease. This book focuses on improving brain function based on metabolic issues, but does not address traumatic brain injuries.

What is The Alzheimer's Antidote?

The Alzheimer's Antidote is divided into five parts:

  1. The Metabolic Origins of Alzheimer's Disease
  2. A Nutritional Strategy for Restoring Healthy Cognitive Function
  3. Lifestyle Factors to Support Healthy Neurological Function
  4. Setting Yourself Up for Success: Beyond Diet and Lifestyle
  5. Conclusion: Why Alzheimer's is on the Rise and How to Repair a Broken Brain

In part 1, we learn how the brain works. After all, you wouldn't try to fix a tool without knowing how it's supposed to work in the first place, right? The concepts are a little complicated at times, but the author explains the ideas with examples and metaphors to make them accessible to the layperson. The author shares the latest research on brain function, diet and lifestyle.

Alzheimer's disease is sometimes referred to as “type 3 diabetes”. After reading section one, you'll understand why. Normally, the brain runs on glucose. In Alzheimer's patients, that pathway stops working. It's like your gas generator suddenly being unable to run on gasoline. Luckily, our bodies come with a built in conversion kit so we can switch fuels. Instead of glucose, we switch to ketones, which are provided from fat. Part two shows you how to make the changes.

Other factors also play a critical role in brain health. Exercise, stress relief, sleep and intermittent fasting are addressed in part three. To help make the transition, part 4 details a strategy of implementation, as well as nutritional support and supplements for Alzheimer's disease and general cognitive health.

Why Alzheimer's is On the Rise

Below is a brief excerpt from the conclusion of the book:

If someone were to ask me how to damage the human brain, here is what I would say about attacking on the dietary front:

  • Deprive it of cholesterol
  • Deprive it of omega-3 fats
  • Load it up with oxidized vegetable oils
  • Avoid animal fast that have nourished robust humans for thousands of year
  • Load it up with carbohydrates to the point where it can no longer metabolize them and, in fact, as a protective measure, actively shuts down the use of glucose
  • Emphasize that a “healthy diet” is one that is very low in animal; foods – especially animal fat – and that high-glycemic grains should be the foundation of the diet

And if I wanted to make things even worse and absolutely ensure the brain would not get the critical nutrient it needs, I would attack it on a pharmacological front, too:

  • Take a statin drug or other medication to lower cholesterol
  • Take a stomach acid-blocking drug or use other prescription or over-the-counter antacids long term

Basically, most of the “health advice” we've been given for the last few decades is bad – very bad – for our brains.

The good news is that we can make changes. It's never too early or too late to give it a try. The diet and lifestyle changes outlined in the book may also be helpful for other conditions, too. Many of the recommendations are similar to what I've done to put my psoriasis into remission.

If you're concerned about your brain health or the health of someone you care about (or if you're just tired of forgetting where you left the keys), The Alzheimer's Antidote is worth a read.

Click Here to Get Your Copy of The Alzheimer's Antidote

If you're concerned about your brain health or the health of someone you care about, The Alzheimer's Antidote is worth a read.

More Health Book Reviews on Common Sense Homesteading

I may work online, but I still enjoy reading print books. We have a substantial library here on the homestead, and I've featured a number of the books on the Homestead Library page. For those interested in nutrition and alternative health, you may enjoy:

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Survival Uses For Coffee Cans And Coffee Filters

Survival Uses For Coffee Cans And Coffee Filters was originally published to http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

As survivalists, we’ll take an everyday item and make sure it has (or will have) at least two or three survival uses. This includes anything from paracords to zip ties to trash bags!Anything that is not a multi use item is useless! It’s a practical yet necessary mindset that we carry with us wherever we go. If you don’t already stock up on coffee filters and even the big red folgers cans… you might want to read below to see how your morning cup of Joe is actually a heck of a survival tool:

The Many Survival Uses For Coffee Cans And Coffee Filters

There are some pretty cool survival uses for these two items!

The survival uses for coffee cans that I’ll cover today include:

  • Survival kit
  • First aid kit
  • Organizational container for your survival supplies
  • Water container
  • DIY heater
  • Hot coal carrier
  • Cooking
  • Leftover storage while camping
  • Hiding place for valuables
  • Container for washing small items

The survival uses for coffee filters that I’ll cover today include:

  • First aid
  • Filtering water
  • Emergency toilet paper or paper towels
  • Fire starter
  • Keeping flying insects away from your food and drinks
  • Headache relief
  • Makeshift bowl
  • Makeshift notepad
  • Funnel

Let’s get started!

Survival Uses For Coffee Cans

Survival Uses For Coffee Cans | Survival Uses For Coffee Cans And Coffee Filters

Survival Kit

A metal or plastic coffee can makes a great container for a survival kit! You can include items such as a fire starting kit, multi-tool, a poncho, and any other necessary items that could save you in a survival situation.

Check out our article, Coffee Can Survival Kit for Your Car, for a great example of what to possibly include in your own survival kit.

First Aid Kit

A metal or plastic coffee can makes a great container for a first aid kit as well. Check out our article, What to Include in a Home First Aid Kit, for a step by step guide on building the perfect first aid kit for you and your family.

Organize Your Survival Supplies

A coffee can may also help you organize your survival supplies while on a camping trip. Let’s say you want to go around the corner from the campsite to fish, and you want a container to carry your needed supplies while you catch dinner. Throw them in a small plastic coffee can, and you’re all set!

Water Container

A metal coffee can makes a great tool to scoop water from your nearby water source. You can also use it to boil the water so it’s safe to drink.

DIY Heater

This DIY heater is a great temporary solution for an extra heat source for the inside of a tent. The burn time for this DIY heater is approximately 15-18 minutes. There is no odor as it burns.

What you’ll need:

  • 1 small metal coffee can
  • 1 roll of toilet paper
  • Lighter or matches
  • 1 container of 70% rubbing alcohol

Directions:

  • Remove the cardboard insert from the toilet paper roll. Bend the roll slightly and insert it into the coffee can.
  • Next, pour the 70% alcohol onto the toilet paper making sure to soak the entire roll.
  • After the alcohol has had time to soak into the toilet paper completely, light the toilet paper.

Carrying Hot Coals

If you’re walking from one campsite to another and want to have a fire as soon as you arrive, you can carry hot coals inside a metal coffee can. You’ll have a roaring fire going within a few minutes. Great time and energy saver!

Cooking

Large metal coffee cans are great for cooking! Check out our article, Now You’re Cooking!, for step by step instructions on how you can have the perfect meal using a coffee can!

Store Leftovers While Camping

Metal coffee cans also make perfect storage for your leftovers, because they help to conceal food odors. This is important as any food odors can attract predators and other unwanted pests.

Keep Your Valuables Hidden

Need a good hiding place for your valuables? Coffee cans make the perfect place to hide any valuables, such as your cell phone, any jewelry, wallet, etc.

Washing Small Items

Lastly, of the many survival uses for coffee cans, large plastic coffee cans are great for washing smaller items like socks, under garments, etc. Just fill the coffee can half way with water, add a little soap, throw in the items, close the lid, and give it a good shake for about 2-5 minutes. Next, rinse the items with clean water and then wring them out and let air dry.

Survival Uses For Coffee Filters

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First Aid

Of course, first aid kit supplies are what you use to clean and dress your wounds. However, if you’ve cut yourself, and the first aid kit is not within your sight or reach, but you have immediate access to a coffee filter, then by all means, use one to press down on the wound to stop the bleeding. However, keep in mind that this is a temporary solution until you can get to your first aid kit.

Filtering Water

Coffee filters are not meant to completely filter your water, but they can be used to filter out small pieces of wood, pebbles, grass, etc. Boiling your water is always the safest bet to remove all bacteria and waterborne pathogens

Check out this incredible water filter made from less than $10.00 in material:

.

Emergency Toilet Paper Or Paper Towels

You get to your campsite and realize you didn’t pack the toilet paper or paper towels! Don’t panic. You can just use coffee filters instead.

Fire Starter

When you’re done cooking your meal in your cast iron skillet, wipe the excess grease off with a coffee filter. But, don’t throw it away! Instead, use it later on as a fire starter.

Keep Flying Insects Away From Your Food And Drinks

One thing about eating outdoors is dealing with flies and gnats buzzing around your food! To protect your food and drinks, cover them with coffee filters.

Headache Relief

Sometimes, over the counter medications alone just don’t cut it for headaches. For an instant cold compress, wet a coffee filter and then stick it in the freezer for about five minutes. Place the chilled coffee filter on your forehead for that extra headache relief.

Makeshift Bowl

Here’s a great idea for a ‘less mess’ snack or meal (though for dry foods only). Place your snack or quick meal in a coffee filter and just throw it away after you’re done — no dishes to wash this way!

Makeshift Notepad

Coffee filters make a great substitute for a notepad to jot down those quick notes!

Funnel

Slightly cup the coffee filter and cut off the tip. This creates a great funnel and makes transferring things to other containers much easier.

Step One survival shows a video on the survival coffee can:

Do you use unconventional items for survival? If so, what are your favorite survival uses for coffee cans? Share with us in the comment section below.

UP NEXT: 377 Survival Hacks And Skills You Should Know

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Trump Reverses Obama, Allowing Police To Acquire Military Armored Vehicles & Rocket Launchers

The following blog post Trump Reverses Obama, Allowing Police To Acquire Military Armored Vehicles & Rocket Launchers is courtesy of Total Survival

WASHINGTON — The federal government will again give local law enforcement surplus military weapons — including bayonets and rocket launchers — under a plan unveiled by President Trump and Attorney General Jeff Sessions.

Trump on Monday lifted Obama-era restrictions on such gear. The Obama ban had been applauded by those on the Left and the Right.

“We will not put superficial concerns above public safety,” Sessions told the Fraternal Order of Police (FOP), a union. “All you need to do is turn on a TV right now to see that for Houstonians this isn’t about appearances, it’s about getting the job done and getting everyone to safety.”

Under the Trump plan, police once again can obtain things like surplus armored vehicles and large-caliber weapons from the military.

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The FOP was one of a number of organizations campaigning to get the ban rescinded. Obama implemented the ban following national outrage over police militarization during the 2014 Ferguson riots.

FOP officials said rocket launchers would be used for tear gas.

“We’re not talking about tanks and cannons,” James Pasco, the FOP’s executive director, said. “Armored vehicles don’t attack people; they protect people and not everyone can afford this equipment.”

Said Obama when he announced the policy: “We’ve seen how militarized gear can sometimes give people a feeling like they’re an occupying force, as opposed to a force that’s part of the community that’s protecting them and serving them.”

Trump’s action was quickly criticized by people on both sides of the aisle.

“Americans must never sacrifice their liberty for an illusive and dangerous — or false — security,” Sen. Rand Paul, R-Ky, said. “The militarization of our law enforcement is due to an unprecedented expansion of government power in this realm.”

Vanita Gupta, president of the Leadership Conference for Civil and Human Rights, agreed. Gupta was an official in the Obama Justice Department.

“Our communities are not the same as armed combatants in a war zone,’ Gupta said.

What do you think? Should the Trump administration have lifted the ban? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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10 Uses For Galbanum Oil — The ‘Miracle Oil’ Of The Romans

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If you’ve never heard of galbanum oil, you’re not alone. It’s been used for thousands of years since Roman times for a diverse group of applications, from incense to embalming. But despite its history and its fresh, green “forest” aroma, galbanum is an under-the-radar essential oil.

Taken from the Ferula galbaniflua plant, galbanum oil is made by steam distillation of the plant. Galbanum is native to northern Europe and northern Africa, and originated in Iran. The Levant, or “soft” variety, is used to make most of the oil, since it yields more during the extraction process. Mentioned in the book of Exodus, galbanum also was used by the Egyptians for skin preparations and cosmetics. The oil’s main components are cadinene, cadinol, myrcene and pinene.

What can galbanum oil do for you? Its medicinal properties are numerous:

  1. Wounds: heals skin, including scars, boils, blisters and acne.
  2. Relieves chest congestion due to bronchitis and other upper-respiratory ills.
  3. Increases circulation in the body, helping with arthritis, rheumatism and circulation-related issues.
  4. Stimulates the circulation of lymph in the body.
  5. Increases growth of new tissues and cells.
  6. Skin: tightens and firms, eradicates wrinkles (in mature skin), helps with stretch marks and other aging-related skin problems.
  7. Relaxes muscles prone to spasms, and relieves associated pain.
  8. Promotes better sleep.
  9. Supports immune system functioning.
  10. Calming: helps with recovery from depression, shock and trauma (via aromatherapy, including PTSD).

Used topically, you should dilute it with a carrier oil and apply it wherever needed. Never use it undiluted on your skin. Carrot seed, geranium, lavender, spruce and rose otto are great carrier oils. For inhalation, add three to four drops into an essential oil diffuser, or dilute it with essential water to inhale.

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Galbanum also can help keep bugs out of your house. It’s particularly good at deterring ants, roaches, mosquitoes, flies, fleas, lice and bed bugs.

Galbanum is FDA-approved as safe for food flavorings and additives. The best types to use are either food-grade or therapeutic-grade to avoid petrochemical additives. Galbanum also can be blended with other essential oils to make perfumes.

But as with any essential oil, you must carefully follow prescribed doses and not exceed them—more is not always better. Keep this and all essential oils out of your eyes, and away from mucous membranes or other sensitive skin. You should not take galbanum internally, unless you are working with a healthcare practitioner who prescribes it. No adverse reactions are known, but an allergen skin test is a good idea before you use it the first time.

While balbanum isn’t the most popular essential oil, its many benefits can replace a host of more expensive products and pharmaceuticals. Used with care, you may find you can’t live without galbanum in your medicine cabinet.

Have you ever used galbanum oil? Share your thoughts on this oil in the section below:

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Monday, 28 August 2017

Essential Hempcrete Construction: The Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Essential Hempcrete Construction: The Complete Step-by-Step Guide is republished from http://ift.tt/1nr27gs

Hempcrete is a versatile, energy-efficient natural insulation material, useful for walls, roofs, and floors. Made from the inner stem of the hemp plant mixed with a lime-based binder, it is a very strong, lightweight and breathable alternative to manufactured insulations. Essential Hempcrete Construction is a fully-illustrated practical guide to this affordable, renewable method, from procurement to finishing.

Learn about hempcrete construction:

Essential Hempcrete Construction: The Complete Step-by-Step Guide

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How To Turn Hedges Into A Rock-Solid Home Defense Fortress

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There are a lot of homes with wrought iron fences around them in the area where I live. This comes from the strong Hispanic population in the area. In Mexico, it’s common to build cinder block walls or wrought iron fences around a home as a means of protection (remember, they don’t have our Second Amendment rights). So, what we have here is merely a carryover that they’ve brought with them when they moved to the United States.

This is rare in the rest of the country, where we are accustomed to wood fences in the backyard and open front yards. Our fences aren’t built so much for security, but for privacy. We even call them “privacy fences.” In reality, those privacy fences don’t do much to help protect us, considering that the horizontal bars provide a ladder. They aren’t even secure from the other side, as all it takes is a hammer and pry bar to pull the fence apart.

Coming Up With an Alternative

So, what do we do? How can we provide ourselves with some level of perimeter defense, without making it look like we’re trying to turn our home into Fort Knox?

Before we go any farther, let me clarify something. No passive defense system you can build will keep your home safe, unless you build an actual castle, moat and all. However, it can do several things for you: 1) It can slow down your attackers, giving you time to react. 2) It can channel the avenue down which your attackers come. 3) It can limit the access points to your house.

You Don’t Need A Firearms License For This Weapon!

I recommend planting hedges. First, it can be just as effective at blocking access to your property as a wall can. Perhaps even more so, especially if you use a plant that has thorns. There’s just something about those thorns that people don’t like. Secondly, it won’t look like a wall, so it won’t convey the message of being a part of your defenses, even though it is.

There’s another real advantage of planting a hedge rather than building a fence: The hedge is a whole lot cheaper. Our hedge, which surrounds our front yard, consists of 84 bugambilia bushes. Since I bought them from a wholesale nursery, it cost me less than $200 to plant my hedge.

Creating Your Defensive Hedge

If you decide to plant a defensive hedge, the first thing you must decide is whether you want a slow-growing plant or a fast-growing plant. The slow-growing one will take less maintenance, as you won’t have to trim it as often, but it will be considerably longer before your hedge is at the point of being an effective part of your defenses. A fast-growing one, on the other hand, will augment your defenses within a few months, but you’ll end up having to trim it every week or two.

We planted our hedge in one day, with the help of some friends. While we were doing the project, I took advantage of the opportunity to install underground soaker hoses for watering, cutting down on my maintenance work. I also put a swath of landscaping fabric under the bushes, covering it with mulch. This eliminates the problem of having to mow under the bushes.

You will have to decide how far apart to plant your bushes, based upon the type of bush you select and how fast it grows. Mine are two feet apart, which worked out extremely well. But if I had used a slow-growing plant, I would have planted them closer together.

As part of your planning, decide what openings you are going to leave. The only ones we have are at the front walkway, coming up to our front door and the walkway that connects to the driveway. At the end of the hedge, where it connects to the neighbor’s fence, we have grown the hedge several feet past the corner, eliminating any opening there that can be used to squeeze through. So, we have positive control over the access routes that attackers can use. Those are covered by surveillance cameras.

The most important part of the process begins once the bushes start growing. That is to interweave the branches, crossing them over those of the adjacent bushes. In some cases, the branches on our bushes are actually crossing three other bushes before reaching the top. This makes it impossible for anyone to push their way through the hedge. They would have to cut through it first.

I’ve made that difficult by threading some quarter-inch diameter steel rod through the hedge, with one course halfway up its four-foot height and another about a foot above the ground. It is tied off to the trunks of the bushes where possible. This also serves to keep people from being able to low crawl under the bushes, even though our small dog can still escape that way.

The Psychology Behind the Plan

It’s important to understand what I’m trying to accomplish here. It’s not so much to keep people from being able to approach my front door, as it is controlling how they approach my front door. Without the hedge, people could cross over from my neighbor’s front yard and approach my front door without me having a chance of seeing them. That could mean that my first notice that my home was about to be invaded would be someone’s boot kicking my front door.

Other than trained military operators, people will pick the easiest way to go around or through any obstacle. So, by blocking off my front yard, while leaving open the front walkway, I can pretty much guarantee how people will approach my home. And, thus, my home is safer.

Have you ever used hedges for home defense? Share your advice in the section below:

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65 Essential Items (Other Than Food & Water) You Better Stockpile

65 Essential Items (Other Than Food & Water) You Better Stockpile was originally published to http://ift.tt/1Qfw8v0

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Many stockpiles focus exclusively on food. But it’s important to plan for the non-edible items you need to store.

Use this checklist of more than 65 non-edible essential stockpile items to make sure you haven’t missed something important.

We’ve split this list into three main categories: cooking supplies, shelter supplies, and personal comfort.

Cooking & Kitchen Supplies Checklist

These cooking and kitchen supplies are needed for food preparation, meal cleanup and food storage:

Dish soap, paper plates and disposable utensils, paper towels (using disposable items saves water, which may be a concern during a crisis), garbage bags, and freezer bags of various sizes are good items to store. Also consider food-grade buckets, can openers, charcoal and lighter fluid, and or one or more means of cooking food, whether that’s a propane fired generator or a propane fired grill or a wood stove. You also may need a knife sharpener. Also include hunting and fishing equipment.

Shelter Supplies Checklist

Shelter supplies are needed for heat, light, repairs, sheltering in place, and items that make a structure livable.

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Heating: You need a source of heat in cold months. First, a supply of heating fuel (is your fuel tank full?). If you have a generator, you need a full tank of fuel to power that, too. If you don’t have a generator, you need a non-electric source of heat, such as a wood stove, and the wood, kindling, and newspaper needed to start a fire. Wood takes time to season, so do not assume you can just chop down a tree and get ready to use firewood. A fresh chopped tree is green wood, and green wood does not burn well.

Light: If the electricity goes out, you need candles and flashlights (and matches/lighters and batteries). It’s fairly easy to get solar power and battery setup to power lighting (heat and appliances are more difficult and expensive), which means you could save on your electric bill now and be prepared while having to store fewer flashlights and candles.

Additionally, evaluate your water supply and what you need for short- and long-term water supplies. Unless you have an artesian spring, your water supply likely depends on electricity (such as either a well pump or municipal water treatment plant). Store a supply of water, or have the knowledge and know-how to get water from a well without electricity.

Every home should have a supply of nails, screws and the basic tools for repair (a hammer, a screwdriver set, a set of socket wrenches, a measuring tape, a hacksaw, a wood saw, and a pipe wrench are the bare-bone basics). Other supplies to have on hand: duct tape, staple gun and staples, and plastic sheeting.

Think you can remember everything, all the time? Maybe not, so get a supply of pens, pencils, paper, and a pencil sharpener.

A washtub, washboard, laundry soap, clothesline and pins: These could go in the next category of health and personal comfort, but laundry and washing is so tied to home and water that it’s in this category.

Before we move on from shelter supplies, you should add the following supplies to your car or garage: a 5-gallon container to store gas, a length of tubing to siphon fuel, and a real spare tire instead of the donut that’s probably in your trunk.

Health and Personal Comfort Supplies Checklist

Health and personal comfort supplies cover everything from toilet paper to an upgraded first-aid kit. Get a good kit, or upgrade the basic first-aid kit you have with compression bandages and QuikClot (lifesavers in the event of heavy bleeding and NOT in the standard first-aid kit), real scissors, real tweezers (the plastic ones in most kits are a joke), antiseptics like peroxide and rubbing alcohol, splints and ace bandage.

Have a supply of your essential medications and the standard medicinal items like aspirin, fever reducers like Tylenol, electrolyte solution, and cough medicine.

Soap, bleach and hand sanitizer are important items to store, as are toothbrushes, toothpaste, and diapers if any of applicable age in the house. Don’t forget to consider the needs of children and elderly relatives (both may need diapers). Extra towels (see laundry in the above category), blankets and sheets are always good to have.

In conclusion, there are many stockpile supplies that you can’t eat, but you really need.

What would you add to our list? Let us know in the section below:

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How to Deal With The 5 Stages Of Grief After TSHTF

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Dealing with grief is never easy. I know it may not seem like it but the ability to identify and deal with grief is a crucial survival skill. In a survival situation the limits of your emotions will be tried and tested and if you don’t know how to keep your wits about you, it could just break you.

There are 5 key stages to grief and each requires a different skillset to deal with. These stages do not necessarily happen chronologically, in fact, most people move between stages before they make peace with the situation they’re in. Aside from guns and gear, you need to be mentally equipped to deal with loss in a crisis… make sure this skill set is not lost on you.

The 5 Stages of Grief | Surviving Loss

We all grieve in different ways. Some people are very emotional and cry their hearts out to alleviate the pain, while others grieve discreetly and may not even cry at all. There’s no concrete formula for grieving and we should not be hasty in judging how others cope as well. To help you through the grieving process, let’s talk about the 5 stages of grief so you can better understand where you stand.

1. Denial

Denial | Stages Of Grief And How To Deal With It
Usually, upon learning the tragic news of the death of a loved one or being terminally ill, the initial reaction is denying the reality of the unfortunate circumstance. You’ll probably tell yourself repeatedly “this isn’t happening.” This is natural and normal, especially if you’re faced with overwhelming emotions. Denial is a self-defense mechanism and a temporary response to help us cope with the excruciating situation.

2. Anger

Anger | Stages Of Grief And How To Deal With It
This stage of grief comes in many forms. You may be angry at yourself for not saying something you wish you had to a deceased loved one or the person you broke up with. You may also direct your anger to the loved one who passed away for leaving you and for the pain you’re going through.

Anger may also be aimed at your friends or family, or even at inanimate objects. You have the tendency to lash out at anyone or anything at any given time. Additionally, being angry can sometimes make you feel guilty. Due to the heightened emotions, you may start doubting your religious beliefs and get angry with the supreme being.

With all these many forms of anger, it all boils down to one thing: you find someone or something to blame just to ease the pain. While this is understandable and normal, try to find some answers to your questions and help yourself understand the situation. Take your time. Know that you’ll be able to pick up the pieces when you’re ready.

3. Bargaining

Bargaining | Stages Of Grief And How To Deal With It
Sometimes, in your grieving period, you may find yourself begging for things to go back to what it was and in return, you’ll offer to do something good. For instance, you may say “I promise to be a better person if you bring my deceased loved one back.” In an attempt to distract yourself from the pain you’re feeling, bargaining becomes your escape goat.

4. Depression

Depression | Stages Of Grief And How To Deal With It
Due to the unfortunate event you’ve been through, you may undergo reactive depression. Life suddenly lost its meaning and you’re headed in an unknown direction. There will be times when you wouldn’t want to get out of bed or leave the house. You’ll find it hard to do your usual daily routine and opt to just sulk in depression. This heavy feeling may come and go and there will be good and bad days.

Also, depression is connected with the production of serotonin in your brain. If the serotonin level is low, you’re more likely to feel sad. There are various ways to increase your serotonin like exercising, eating less sugary foods, having fun under the sun, or get a relaxing massage. No pressure though, find an activity you’re comfortable with…baby steps!

Depression can turn into a very serious condition and it’s not to be taken lightly. If you are feeling hopelessness, please talk to someone whether it’s a close friend, relative, or even a stranger who is willing to listen. Engage in an activity or hobby that can keep your mind busy. At this grieving stage, you’ll need all the support you can get.

5. Acceptance

Acceptance | Stages Of Grief And How To Deal With It
Acceptance is coming to terms with the reality of the situation. Recognizing and not just knowing that this is the life you’ll be living from now on will help you cope better and deal with the painful moments accordingly. You’ll make adjustments and reorganize things here and there, but the beauty of acceptance is– now, you’re willingly doing it to get yourself back on track.

As you accept the way things are, you’ll be able to invest in new meaningful relationships and new connections. You’ll understand that every emotion you felt and feel is valid, thus, you’ll be able to recognize and deal with your needs better too.

Video: The 5 Stages Of Grief Explained:


Grieving and coping with a very difficult situation is different for each of us. Allow yourself to feel and grieve properly to promote proper healing. Take into consideration these stages of grief to better understand what you’re going through, what you went through, and what you might still go through. Understand that the best person to help you is you, but of course, there’s no harm in allowing others to help you as well. Keep a positive mindset and have faith that everything will fall back into place.

Have you been through these stages of grief? What did you do to survive? Share your thoughts in the comments section below!

Up next: How To Survive A Plane Crash

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Homesteading Health: Bloated? Try This

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Dealing with a bloated belly can be a bummer. There are many different reasons we become bloated. Being bloated can be described as having a full and tight feeling in the abdominal area that is sometimes accompanied by a growling stomach, lack of appetite, and abdominal pain or discomfort.

Homesteading Health: Try These Natural Solutions

Today’s episode on Homesteading Health will lead us down the bloated belly section. I will cover some of the common causes of being bloated, what you can eat or add to your diet to help ease bloating, as well as, what to avoid eating. It’s true that every individual is different so what might be the culprit behind one person’s bloating issues may not be the same for another.

Common Causes

  • Food Allergies and Sensitivities
  • Build-up of Bacteria In The Intestines
  • Irritable Bowel Syndrome
  • PMS
  • Constipation
  • Dehydration
  • Digestion Issues

These are seven of the main causes a person may become bloated. There are numerous causes that it could be but these seven are the most common. In more severe cases it can be linked to cancer, ulcers, and other serious issues.

Your diet plays a really big role in regulating our poop and the air inside of our belly and digestive tract. A well-balanced diet that includes at least 30 grams of fiber in it can help immensely with these issues. Fiber from fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds is some of the best you can get.

Natural Solutions

Natural Solutions | Homesteading Health: Bloated? Try This

Natural Solutions | Homesteading Health: Bloated? Try This
  • Probiotics: Probiotics provide a healthy dose of good bacteria into our system. The bacteria produced from probiotics will help eliminate any of the bad bacteria that is built up in the stomach and digestive tract. Kombucha, ACV, and Kefir are all good ways to get your daily dose or you could take probiotic supplements.
  • Fruits and Vegetables: Fruits and veggies that are water-rich will help rehydrate those who are dehydrated. They will also provide electrolytes and beneficial enzymes that are important for our gut, as well as, your general well-being. Try adding more raw and steamed veggies to your diet. Artichokes, leafy greens, melons, berries, and much more will benefit you in several ways, especially if you’re bloated.
  • Raw Dairy: Rather than consuming homogenized or pasteurized dairy reach for some that are raw. When dairy products are pasteurized it kills the good enzymes we need for proper digestion. If you are not a fan of dairy products or you eat a vegan diet you can skip the dairy and take in more fruits and vegetables.
  • Spices and Herbs: Spices and herbs are far more than just flavoring for our food. A majority of them pack a punch when it comes to health and healing. Many spices and herbs produce a diuretic effect that causes us to eliminate waste through our urine. This will help with bloating, especially if it is linked to water retention. Ginger and fennel are really good for the gut. Ginger helps your stomach release what it needs to let go and also relaxes the muscles in the digestive tract easing the aches and pains associated with bloat, as well as, eliminating the bloat itself.

Avoid or Cut Back on These Foods

Sometimes it is the very foods and beverages we ingest that causes us to become bloated. Here are three things to avoid or cut back on if you are dealing with bloating issues.

  • Sugar: Sugar ferments while it sits in our belly which can be a contributing factor for the growth of candida. This ultimately leads to inflammation which leads to bloating. Instead, try a natural sweetener like stevia or raw honey.
  • Pasteurized Dairy: I mentioned earlier that the consumption of raw dairy is better than pasteurized dairy when it comes to our gut. Pasteurized dairy doesn’t really have the enzymes we need to do the job because they are killed in the process. Stick with raw dairy if you deal with bloating. Warning some people to experience a belly ache when switching to raw dairy, this may or may not pass with time.
  • Refined Grains: Refined grains contain gluten. Some people suffer from gluten allergies making them sensitive to them. Avoid refined grains if you’re dealing with bloat.

Asian Beauty Secrets gives 8 tips on how to debloat:

Changing your diet can have a huge impact on your health in so many different aspects. If you deal with bloat on a regular basis like I did for a while it’s good to try to make a log book of sorts to try to pinpoint exactly what is causing the issues for you. Keep track of what you consume through the day adding the details pertaining to whether you ended up bloated or not. From there you can change what you need to change.

I hope this week’s edition of Homesteading Health finds you well and in a good way. Happy Healing!

Did you find this list helpful and interesting? Let us know in the comments below.

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You Wouldn’t Recognize The Poultry Your Great-Great Grandparents Raised

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For most homesteaders, having poultry is an important part of the lifestyle. We’ve all read the magazine articles about preserving our heritage poultry, and so we bring home flocks of gorgeous Rhode Island Reds and Welsh Harlequin ducks, trios of Royal Palm turkeys, and a pair or two of handsome Pilgrim Geese.

We enjoy our poultry flocks. After all, we are living like our forefathers, right? Well, maybe not.

What if I told you that most of the beautiful species of poultry we raise today weren’t even developed back when great-great granddaddy had his farm and worked the land?

For most of us, our great-great grandparents would have been living life in the 1800s. Whether your ancestors lived on farms or in town, pretty much everyone owned chickens. Dual-purpose chickens provided both eggs and meat, and for this reason most families of six had at least a dozen or more birds. Feeding your flock was mostly about free-ranging them in your yard and feeding them scraps. Occasionally, birds were supplemented with cracked corn, oats, barley or wheat.

Goose and duck flocks were managed in much the same way as chickens, and some breeds were developed to weed crops and orchards. Geese were raised for not only meat but also their feathers and down, which were used in pillows and mattresses. Duck owners enjoyed their meat as well as their eggs. Neither was widely raised until later in the century. In most areas of the country, ducks and geese were hunted rather than grown, most likely as a way to provide meat for the family without the time and expense of managing a flock. Duck meat has never really gained the popularity here that it has in Europe, due largely to the fact that chickens tend to be leaner and far more prolific.

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For the farmer with larger fowl such as turkeys, the birds were primarily allowed to forage. Flocks were raised not only for meat, but also because of their remarkably large appetite for bugs. For this reason, they were often raised in orchards and in woodlots, where the birds also had space to roost in trees. During the winter, birds were supplemented with corn, oats, barley or wheat, much like chickens. Some old-timey turkey-raising manuals even suggest that farmers slaughter a hog as feed for their turkey flocks during the winter months as a way to provide extra fats and protein.

With turkeys being native to over half of the United States, there were plenty of small farms that preferred to hunt them rather than raise them. However, events such as the Mexican-American War and the Civil War impacted the wild populations of the Gould’s, Rio Grande and the Eastern Wild along the Southern United States.

The Breeds of Great-Great Grandaddy’s Day

Chickens

In the early 1800s, chickens were strictly viewed as a utilitarian bird. This meant that flocks largely consisted of crosses of the birds available at the time. One of the more common purebred birds was the Dominique, a dual-purpose bird with barred markings and a very good foraging ability. These handsome birds were often depicted in paintings from that era and are credited as being the oldest breed in America.

Immigrants to the New World brought along breeds such as the Hamburg and Polish, as well as crossed birds from their native countries. The Java also made its appearance in the early 1800s in the colors of black, white and mottled. From these birds of possible Asiatic descent, the Plymouth Rock was developed and made its first official appearance in 1835. English varieties such as the Dorking were imported into the United States around this same time, and by the 1850s “Hen Fever” had caught on to the point that even small farmers were venturing into new breeds. Some of these early imports included the Brahma, Cochin, Orpington, and later on, the Leghorn. By the end of the century many breeders, farmers and enthusiasts were tinkering with creating their own breeds, and we see the emergence of the Winnebago (modern-day Silver Laced Wyandotte), Jersey Giant, Buckeyes and Rhode Island Red.

For our ancestors, the importation and creation of new breeds created larger, often more robust animals that produced better meat and more eggs. Imports were expensive, and a common practice of those early days was to buy a rooster of imported blood and breed it into an established flock. Since hens were allowed to go broody and hatch their own chickens, it took a relatively short amount of time to completely change the landscape of chicken raising in the U.S.

Ducks

The first domesticated ducks in American are believed to have been the Aylesbury from England and the Huttegem from Belgium. While I could find very little about the Huttegem, the Aylesbury is still a very popular breed in England and is prized for its delicious meat and good egg laying ability. Both breeds were not uncommon in New England during the 1800s, and small farms throughout the Midwest usually had a combination of these breeds crossed with domesticated wild mallards.

In the early 1800s, several new duck breeds emerged, claiming to be bred from native species that were caught and domesticated. Most never gained popularity and they disappeared. One in particular endured — the Cayuga duck. The Cayuga’s wild beginnings are often disputed, however, with many believing it actually to be a descendant of the Lancashire Black, which was common on farms in Lancashire, England, into the 1860s. Regardless of its start, the Cayuga was named after the Cayuga region of New York, and the breed was popular in the North East due to its hardiness and its personable, easy nature.

As “Hen Fever” ramped up and chickens began to be imported, a few duck breeds also arrived. In 1850, the Rouen entered the U.S. by way of England, and small poultry keepers rushed to add these heavy weight ducks to their small flocks in an effort to increase meat yields.

The late 1800s saw the importation of the Blue Swedish Duck, and near the turn of the century the first Pekin (or Peking) White ducklings arrived. From here, the U.S. saw the development of many other duck breeds well into the 20th Century.

Geese

Domesticated geese came into America in the early days of the first European settlers. These birds were most likely descendants of the wild Greylag goose, and/or descendants of the domesticated Roman goose.

Beyond birds bred for the small farm or homestead, geese were being bred in large numbers to be used to weed the cotton fields of the South. Descended from unknown birds that arrived during colonial times, these birds became their own breed, the Cotton Patch. Regardless, in my research I could find no truly distinguished goose breeds listed until the arrival of the Bremens (the modern Embden) in the early 1800s. We do know that the Cotton Patch goose was already being utilized in the south by this time; they just hadn’t yet been developed into a true “breed.”

Following the Bremens, Toulouse arrived during the mid-century and became widely popular in the Midwest due to their heat tolerance. In the later part of the century we see the arrival of both the African and Chinese goose, which descend from the wild swan goose of Asia. While the Toulouse flourished in America, the Africans and Chinese didn’t really catch on until much, much later.

Turkeys

Domesticated turkeys in the Americas have an interesting history. The original turkey breed in America (domesticated) and most widely raised is the Bronze. These birds are descended from varieties brought by the first Europeans, crossed with the wild Eastern Turkeys. The resulting animals displayed Hybrid Vigor — being hardier, taller and much heavier than either. Stock from these crosses was retained and resulted in the breed we know today as the Heritage Bronze.

Sometime during the 1700s, the ancestors of the Norfolk Black (also called the Black Spanish) arrived. These birds descended from turkeys taken from Mexico to Europe in the 1500s and brought back to American with the early European Settlers. The birds were then crossed into wild Eastern Turkeys to make it what it is today. While they enjoyed popularity for a time, the breed had more or less fallen out of favor by the mid-1800s.

The Black was used in developing what some consider to be the first truly American turkey, the Narragansett. Developed in Rhode Island from wild Easterns and Blacks, they were considered THE turkey of choice from the Midwest to the Mid-Atlantic from the 1700s until their decline around 1900. They were the first breed to be bred and standardized for commercial production, and were popular on small farms and homesteads for their mild dispositions, large size and prolific breeding. Farmers raising these birds during the early 1800s claimed that a flock of a dozen hens could produce a flock of 100-200 birds in a single year!

Sometime right before the 1800s, the Chocolate turkey arrived from France. These birds were not quite as large or as cold-tolerant as the Northeastern breeds, but they became very popular in the Southern United States prior to the Civil War. They were a popular sight on small holdings and plantations alike, but with the desperate times of the war flocks were devastated to such a degree that they never really made a comeback.

About the same time that the Chocolate was arriving, a new breed was finding favor in the Northeast — the Holland White. It’s interesting to note that the Holland is not a Dutch bird as the name suggests, and is actually a mutant strain of the Heritage Bronze. They quickly found favor for being a bit smaller than the other breeds available at the time, and with their white pin feathers they quickly developed into a commercial breed. They were not as popular with small farmers and homesteaders as the other breeds.

In the late 1800s, the Bourbon Red (or “Bourbon Butternut,” as it was originally known) was developed, and if your ancestors lived in Kentucky or Ohio as mine did, this was the breed they raised. The striking red birds with white tail and wing feathers became very popular for their good growth and large size. They have remained popular into the 21st Century.

It’s worth mentioning that the Jersey Buff was also available during the 1800s, though its exact emergence is difficult to pin down. We do know that it was used in the development of the Bourbon Red, but truly never gained popularity and was considered to be extinct by 1915.

What is plain when researching these breeds is that our forefathers relied on poultry that could withstand the climate they were being raised in and reproduce effectively there. Birds that could serve multiple purposes were far more preferred than anything that was just merely pretty, and efficient foragers with good growth rates were a must. Our great-great grandparents simply didn’t have the time, money or energy to expend on stock that didn’t offer a good return.

What would you add? Do you know what types of breeds your ancestors raised? Share your thoughts in the section below:

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Sunday, 27 August 2017

A Secret Studio Under A Bridge

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Oftentimes artists complain about lack of space for practicing or even creating art. Instead of telling others his sorrow, Fernando Abellanas took action. His studio will astound you! Under a bridge in Valencia, Spain is where he began setting up this amazing studio. It’s actually a tiny moveable workspace, operated by a hand crank from one side of the bridge to the other. The artist says it sees the studio more like a refuge than an area of modern work. Abellanas also declares this is only part of a larger collection of spaces he is creating throughout the city.

Watch the videos to find out more about this awesome place he created for himself. You will be amazed by the simplicity and ingenuity behind the secret studio, what drove the artist to create it in the first place and how he feels being there.

source: instagram

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How to Make Pear Wine – Easy Homemade Wine Recipe for Ripe Pears

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This easy homemade pear wine recipe combines just a few simple ingredients to turn an abundance of ripe pears into delicious homemade wine.
When life gives you too many overripe pears, it's time to learn how to make homemade pear wine. This wine recipe is dry, with a light pear flavor, and is a good use for very ripe and lightly damaged pears.

This recipe is adapted from “How to Make Wine in Your Own Kitchen” by Mettja C. Roate. “How to Make Wine in Your Own Kitchen” is old and hard to find, but if you can find a copy, snatch it up. The recipes use common kitchen ingredients instead of specialized wine making ingredients, which is great for the novice or incidental brewer. I did tweak the recipe a little to include winemaking yeast. You can make homemade wine with wild yeasts, but it's easy to make a mistake and go from homemade wine to homemade vinegar.

There's a new wine making book coming soon from Storey Publishing that I'm looking forward to that features similar style homemade wine recipes. (I got a chance to peak at it before it officially comes out.) I'll give a shout out when it becomes available.

Homemade Pear Wine Recipe

Ingredients

Adapted from “How to Make Wine in Your Own Kitchen“. Makes around one gallon of homemade wine.

  • 4 quarts of chopped, unpeeled ripe pears (approximately five pounds)
  • 3 cups of white raisins, chopped
  • 6 cups of cane sugar
  • 1 cup of light brown sugar
  • 4 quarts of water
  • 1 packet champagne yeast Order champagne yeast
  • 1 teaspoon yeast nutrient (optional) Order yeast nutrient

Directions

Note: If you do not have a crock, you may ferment your wine in any large, food safe container – just don't use aluminum or anything reactive. Some local hardware stores or home brewing store carry crocks in addition to other fermenting vessels. I use a two gallon crock because the wine foams up during initial fermentation.

Pears should be ripe enough that stems pull out easily. If not, set aside and wait a few more days. (Pears ripen off the tree.) Wash, trim, quarter and finely chop or crush the pears. Skins are fine to include, but keep the seeds out. Pear seeds are bitter and can give the wine an off flavor. Crush pears with a potato masher or well washed hands. Place pears and raisins into crock.

In a medium stockpot, dissolve brown and white sugar in two quarts water over low heat. Bring to a boil, and then set aside to cool to lukewarm.

Add 2 quarts water to fruit mash in crock, then add the sugar water. Stir well to evenly distribute the sugar throughout the mix. Sprinkle yeast and yeast nutrient over top of mash, stir in to mix until completely dissolved and well blended.

This easy homemade pear wine recipe combines just a few simple ingredients to turn an abundance of ripe pears into delicious homemade wine.

Fermenting the Pear Wine

Cover and keep in a warm location for three weeks, stirring daily and mashing fruit against the side of the crock. I use a flour sack towel secured with an old elastic head band to cover my wines. Fruit flies love fermented foods, so make sure your container is well sealed.

At the end of the initial three week fermentation period, strain mixture through a jelly bag or flour sack towel, squeezing very dry. Return liquid to crock. Set in a warm place to ferment for two weeks longer. No stirring is necessary during this second fermentation.

At the end of the second ferment (which makes five weeks in all), strain liquid through several thicknesses of cheesecloth or a flour sack towel. Siphon or ladle into the strainer, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the crock. (You're aiming for a clear product at this point.)

Return the clear wine to the crock or a carboy for two days to allow it to settle again. Put the cloudy wine from the bottom of the crock into a two quart jar to settle for two days and then draw off as much clear liquid as possible. Add to the rest of the wine and allow to sit for another day.

This easy homemade pear wine recipe combines just a few simple ingredients to turn an abundance of ripe pears into delicious homemade wine.

Bottling the Pear Wine

Once the pear wine has settled, you can either bottle it directly into bottles or place in a carboy. There may be a little active yeast at this point, so if you put it in bottles, put balloons over the openings so the gasses can escape. When the balloons don't inflate anymore, cork the bottles and age in a cool dark location for at least 6 to 12 months before drinking.

If using a carboy, siphon wine into carboy, keeping your siphon hose off the bottom of the crock to leave the wine dregs behind. Place airlock and age in carboy for 6 months before bottling. When bottling, siphon into bottles, leaving dregs in the bottom of the carboy for a clearer wine.

Using a carboy gives a clearer wine, since you leave behind the sediment one extra time.

Resources

Two gallon crock

One gallon glass carboy with airlock

Wine bottles

Wine bottle corks

Double Lever Wine Bottle Corker

Give Your Homemade Pear Wine Some Extra Kick

“How to Make Wine in Your Own Kitchen” notes…

If you desire more character in your wine, add 1/4 pound of candied ginger, finely chopped, at the same time as the raisins. If you desire heat along with the spicy taste, also add ten or twelve black peppercorns.

There was an attempt to market pear wine commercially in this country at one time. However, due to its blandness, winemakers found it had to be fortified up to 20% with pear brandy. Homemade wine can be fortified, too, for better results. I find that using a good grade of grape brandy gives a wonderful flavor. I add this just before the two-day settling period, using about 2 cups of brandy to a gallon.

In France and Germany there is a pear champagne which is made in much the same manner; however, it is bottled and corked tightly, while in the fermenting stage, giving it effervescence when opened.

More Homemade Wines

Winemaking makes the kitchen smells a bit like hooch at times, but it's pretty tasty hooch. Homemade wine is great way to use up an abundance of produce that might otherwise go to waste. It's safe to give the leftover mash to the chickens, too, or use it to make fruitcake. Just make sure not to give them so much that they get drunk. 🙂

Other homemade wine recipes on the site include:

Need more pear ideas? Check out 9 Ways to Preserve Pears, Plus Tips to Prevent Browning.

This easy homemade pear wine recipe combines just a few simple ingredients to turn an abundance of ripe pears into delicious homemade wine.

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Homemade Pear wine

This easy homemade pear wine recipe combines just a few simple ingredients to turn an abundance of ripe pears into delicious homemade wine.

This easy homemade pear wine recipe combines just a few simple ingredients to turn an abundance of ripe pears into delicious homemade wine.

  • Author: Laurie Neverman
  • Yield: 1 gallon

Ingredients

  • 4 quarts of chopped, unpeeled ripe pears (approximately five pounds)
  • 3 cups of white raisins, chopped
  • 6 cups of cane sugar
  • 1 cup of light brown sugar
  • 4 quarts of water
  • 1 packet champagne yeast
  • 1 teaspoon yeast nutrient (optional)

Instructions

Pears should be ripe enough that stems pull out easily. If not, set aside and wait a few more days. (Pears ripen off the tree.) Wash, trim, quarter and finely chop or crush the pears. Skins are fine to include, but keep the seeds out. Pear seeds are bitter and can give the wine an off flavor. Crush pears with a potato masher or well washed hands. Place pears and raisins into crock.

In a medium stockpot, dissolve brown and white sugar in two quarts water over low heat. Bring to a boil, and then set aside to cool to lukewarm.

Add 2 quarts water to fruit mash in crock, then add the sugar water. Stir well to evenly distribute the sugar throughout the mix. Sprinkle yeast and yeast nutrient over top of mash, stir in to mix until completely dissolved and well blended.

Fermenting the Pear Wine

Cover and keep in a warm location for three weeks, stirring daily and mashing fruit against the side of the crock. I use a flour sack towel secured with an old elastic head band to cover my wines. Fruit flies love fermented foods, so make sure your container is well sealed.

At the end of the initial three week fermentation period, strain mixture through a jelly bag or flour sack towel, squeezing very dry. Return liquid to crock. Set in a warm place to ferment for two weeks longer. No stirring is necessary during this second fermentation.

At the end of the second ferment (which makes five weeks in all), strain liquid through several thicknesses of cheesecloth or a flour sack towel. Siphon or ladle into the strainer, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the crock. (You're aiming for a clear product at this point.)

Return the clear wine to the crock or a carboy for two days to allow it to settle again. Put the cloudy wine from the bottom of the crock into a two quart jar to settle for two days and then draw off as much clear liquid as possible. Add to the rest of the wine and allow to sit for another day.

Bottling the Pear Wine

Once the pear wine has settled, you can either bottle it directly into bottles or place in a carboy. There may be a little active yeast at this point, so if you put it in bottles, put balloons over the openings so the gasses can escape. When the balloons don't inflate anymore, cork the bottles and age in a cool dark location for at least 6 to 12 months before drinking.

If using a carboy, siphon wine into carboy, keeping your siphon hose off the bottom of the crock to leave the wine dregs behind. Place airlock and age in carboy for 6 months before bottling. When bottling, siphon into bottles, leaving dregs in the bottom of the carboy for a clearer wine.

Using a carboy gives a clearer wine, since you leave behind the sediment one extra time.

Notes

Note: If you do not have a crock, you may ferment your wine in any large, food safe container – just don't use aluminum or anything reactive. Some local hardware stores or home brewing store carry crocks in addition to other fermenting vessels. I use a two gallon crock because the wine foams up during initial fermentation.

Originally published in 2011, updated in 2017.

The post How to Make Pear Wine – Easy Homemade Wine Recipe for Ripe Pears appeared first on Common Sense Homesteading.

This Article Was Originally Posted at commonsensehome.com Read The Original Article Here

Learn More Here: How to Make Pear Wine – Easy Homemade Wine Recipe for Ripe Pears