Laying eggs comes naturally for chickens, so it’s no rocket science when dealing with this issue. But in order to provide the best products, even egg production can be a well-documented and managed activity. So, nesting boxes are something you should really consider if you wish to offer the deserved amount of comfort for your chooks and the best of quality for the final eggs. The ones suggested here are inexpensive nesting boxes, which you can make out of materials already lying around the house. Sure, you should take account the size of the chicken coop beforehand. But after that, choosing your preferred type of box for your chickens should be easy. Wine boxes, wooden barrels, litter boxes, milk crates and plenty more can be transformed into effective nesting boxes.
1.Wooden Barrel Nesting Box
2. DIY Chicken Nesting Boxes Using Kitty Litter Buckets
Permaculture design is being used across the globe to provide more abundance for people in the form of food, seeds, savings, trees, water conservation, water catchment, energy conservation, energy generation, richer soils, higher nutritional density of foods, passively heated and cooled homes, clean burning wood stoves, more community connection and stability, and more self-reliance. Developed from the words “permanent agriculture”, permaculture focuses on long term plantings, not just annual crops, and the connections between all life. Everything serves a purpose, and the best designs have every element serve more than one purpose.
Permaculture Design Elements – Planting Guilds
Instead of monocultures, which are all one plant, we often talk of polycultures, which means a mixed group of plants. Permaculture planting guilds build on mutually beneficial polycultures. Planting guilds are usually focused around one main plant or a small group of plants.
Shallow-rooted, ground cover plants that dress the area to keep evaporation down, protect roots, and ideally provide a food source or fix-nitrogen for the fruit tree to feed on. These could be nasturtiums, strawberry clover, strawberries, or any number of other plants.
A guild is like a guide that helps us to see the functions, interactions, and beneficial possibilities that are already available to us.
Permaculture Design Elements – Zones
All areas of work or interaction can be broken down into how many steps it takes to get there and back, plus how long a time you’ll spend there and how frequently you visit.
Zone 0 is the home
Zone 1 is the area immediately around the home. All the daily chores should happen in zone 1 or the edge of zone 1 & 2
Zone 2 features weekly or more regular work
Zones 3 and 4 are areas where work is done biweekly, monthly, or seasonally
Zone 5 is wilderness
This simple and understandable exercise frames the way we design our homesteads. It takes time and tinkering, but correct development of zones save time and work.
Homesteading can be heaven or it can be hell; it’s all in the design. Orchards can be organized according to ripeness date, so you visit a different row each week throughout the season. Perhaps you have pigs follow your succession to clean up the fallen fruit and end the pest cycles. The choices for improving adaptations are endless.
Permaculture Design Elements – Swales and Earthworks for Water Catchment
Swales are based on several simple concepts:
Water slows and stills when it is held in a flat containment area
Water soaks readily into non-compacted soils
Trees and perennials hold soil together
Shade prevents evaporation
These principles combined create wide ditches on contour with a soft berm on the lower side with trees and perennials planted in the berm. Rain and runoff fill the swale bed which can be a road or a walkway, but it has to be flat and non-compacted to slow, spread and soak water.
If you are in an arid zone, you may have to have your swales work as diversion drains leading water to a focused area for gardening or an orchard – you can make these diversion drains sealed but that’s more costly and robs all those areas of even the passing moisture.
If you are in a wet area, swales that soak yet divert excess water can keep your garden watered without overdoing it. Stacking swales can greatly increase the amount of water soaking into soils and can even restart dry springs.
The Permaculture Student Series
The Permaculture Student 1 book set, originally made for middle schools, is being used across America and throughout the globe with families, home schoolers, elementary schools, middle schools, and even high schools. The Permaculture Student 1 book set is a thorough introduction to permaculture endorsed by Permaculture Magazine, permies.com, Geoff Lawton, Rosemary Morrow, Dr. Elaine Ingham, Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company and more.
The Permaculture Student 2, which is in the middle of its Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign, is the first high school textbook on permaculture ever! It’s also a comprehensive all-in-one textbook, a full year’s curriculum with activities and formulas all included with the most up-to-date information on permaculture design, carbon-sequestration, holistic management, urban permaculture, fungi, social permaculture and more!
Even if you don’t have high school students in your home, there’s plenty of information that would be applicable and easy to use on any homestead.
A Homemade Survival Weapon That’s Great for Small Game and Fish
In this video we’re going to show you how to make a simple but effective survival spear. We’ll also offer some basic fire-hardening techniques that will prolong the life of your spear.
Stick around to the end to learn the most effective way to make this multifunctional, primitive hunting tool. Along the way we’ll pass on some important safety warnings and tips.
Whether you’re in an authentic survival scenario or just up at the lake for a weekend camping trip, you’ve got to eat.
But what if your food supplies are running low, or worse, you never had any to begin with?
That’s where your survival spear comes in.
Before we get started, you’ll need a few things.
Spear pole. We recommend a small, green tree approximately two inches and two inches to two and a half inches in diameter, and a few inches taller than you are. (We’ll tell you why later.)
Sturdy baton stick
2-3 feet of strong cordage
Folding saw
A good, full tang fixed blade knife
Check out the video below, and scroll down for our step-by-step guide to making your own survival spear.
Tip: When choosing a tree for your spear pole, choose as straight a sapling as possible. We recommend hard woods such as hickory, oak or maple.
Once you’ve cut your pole, saw off the fat end so that it’s flat.
Now, take you cordage and wrap the pole about 10 inches below the working end. This will help the pole to keep from splitting out once you begin the batoning process.
WARNING: Always be sure that your spear stands at least as tall as you do. This helps ensure that the sharpened points of your spear are above eye level, just in case you take a fall while out on the hunt.
Once you’ve wrapped the working end of the spear with cordage, butt the opposing end up against a tree or stump to help stabilize it as you slowly baton 8-10 inches straight down.
Turn your knife perpendicular to the first split and repeat the batoning process.
Next, find a couple of three-inch sticks about the diameter of a pencil and slide them firmly in place between the splits to keep the spear points expanded.
With your knife, sharpen each of the four points.
Once the points are sharp, remove the cordage and place the sharpened points below the coals of a fire for 10-15 minutes to speed dry or “fire-harden” the wood.
WARNING: Be mindful of your spear during this process; check it often to make sure it’s only drying and not burning.
An alternative drying technique is to hold the spear just above the flames of your fire like a marshmallow, so that the flames lick the points of the spear. While this technique may take longer, it’s easier to keep an eye on the spear points to make sure they aren’t burning.
Once the spear is removed from the fire and allowed to cool, latch the three inch wooden pegs in place to reinforce the spear during impact.
Align your cordage vertically against the shaft of the spear and create a loop.
Next, wrap cordage around the shaft while alternating over and under the wooden pegs.
After two or three times around, slip the working end of your cordage through the loop you created earlier, and give a stout tug on the other end. When done correctly, this will tighten the pegs up nicely and leave you with a durable, four-prong spear point.
You can also opt to sharpen the other end of you spear into a single, fire-hardened point for self defense against potential predators.
There you have it: a sturdy spear good for self defense and harvesting small game and fish.
What did you think of our survival spear tutorial? Sound off in the comments below!
Your DIY survival spear will work great to take down small game and fish, but when it comes to larger game you’ll need a more heavy-duty weapon. Check out our DIY compound bow tutorial to learn how to make a weapon that packs an even bigger punch!
Transitioning from a traditional city or suburban lifestyle to that of a more rural homestead is occurring with greater frequency these days. The call to live the ultimate do-it-yourself life appeals to many different types of people, and with a little bit of planning and forethought, mixed with drive and determination, most can successfully create a self-sufficient homestead of their own.
Building a homestead from scratch, or even purchasing an established homestead, is an exciting step forward in making that transition, but it is vitally important to budget and plan for each aspect of the new venture. Failure to be financially prepared has left many would-be homesteaders scratching their heads and wondering where they went wrong.
A major part of launching a homestead involves the initial startup costs. Startup costs include acreage, dwellings and outbuildings, seeds and livestock, but they also should include such details as alternative energy sources, water sources and purification methods, necessary farm equipment, and other basic needs that the homestead is not yet producing.
Below are some helpful considerations to start with.
Land of Your Own
After determining the minimum amount of acreage that will be sufficient, the search for the perfect location can begin. Land prices vary greatly, so those who are willing to relocate may have the opportunity to save a significant amount of money. Some rural locations are looking for families to relocate and offer homestead contracts for acreage at drastically reduced prices. In other areas, though, it is much harder to purchase just a few acres. Some locations have laws against farmers selling small acreage allotments along the edges of their properties. Before contacting a landowner, check local ordinances for such restrictions. Renting is also a budget-friendly option for those who are just getting their feet wet in homesteading and not ready to commit.
Dwelling Places
Image source: Pixabay.com
In pioneer days, a hastily constructed dwelling was erected, while time and attention was given to the barns and other outbuildings. Despite the suburbs filled home of enormous proportions, a new trend is emerging: the tiny house. If the acreage set aside for the homestead does not have a preexisting dwelling, there are several options from which to choose. A traditionally constructed farmhouse is the most expensive option, but it also the one that people feel most comfortable with. Small homes constructed from sheds, cargo containers and other salvaged materials are a recent trend that can be much more cost-efficient. Some homesteaders even are living in yurts.
On the Farm
Barns and other outbuildings are essential on the homestead. Providing shelter for the livestock and protection for precious feed, these buildings can be acquired in much the same manner as the principle dwelling.
Even good quality used equipment will set the new homesteader back some. Budgeting for the necessary equipment is a must. For those pieces of machinery that are for convenience, try bartering with a neighbor or acquaintance to reduce the initial investment in equipment.
Seeds, trees and other perennial plants may not seem like a source of budget woes, but these relatively small purchases can add up quickly.
Livestock can be bartered for or purchased outright. The biggest expense for the new homestead is feed costs. For the first few years, livestock will need to have their feed supplemented until the homestead can produce enough feed to sustain itself.
Alternative Energy
Off-grid living and homesteading go seemingly hand in hand. Even if living off the grid is not the intention of the owners, alternative energy sources are a positive when faced with power outages and rising utility rates. Solar power systems, wind turbines and hydroelectric outfits have become more readily available for the consumer.
Living Essentials
While focusing on the dream of starting your homestead, it may be easy to lose sight of the fact that daily necessities will still need to be budgeted. Food not produced on the homestead will need to be purchased, and toiletries, clothing and other miscellaneous household supplies will need to be replaced. Buying ahead or setting aside a portion of the budget to prepare for them can be a great help.
Want to know how to care for your outdoor furniture? Here’s some tips to keep them clean and make your outdoor patio furniture last longer!
Caring for Your Outdoor Furniture
If you have a deck area outside of your home, you should feel truly lucky. It makes for a great spot to retreat after a tiring day at work and just relax, or hold a party with some relatives and friends there. Take your time to design a comfortable and good looking area outside of your home, and you will greatly benefit from the opportunities it presents.
If there is one thing you should know about designing a deck area in your backyard, it is that you should be careful of the furniture you pick for it. Invest in quality furniture that can withstand the elements and you will have yourself the perfect place to escape for some peace and quiet quality time or the convenient equipment to sit your guests on when they come for a visit. Apart from equipping for deck area with the right furniture, you also need to consider proper maintenance and cleaning service for it. This will prolong its life and save you from potential problems, which may ultimately require you to replace the furniture and waste money on new.
How to Care For and Clean Different Types of Outdoor Furniture:
Caring For Plastic Outdoor Furniture
One of the reasons why plastic furniture is so preferred is that it is cheap. Another one is that it is among the least demanding types of outdoor furniture in terms of maintenance and cleaning service. All you will ever need is a bucket of warm water mixed with baking soda and a sponge to get the furniture clean and sanitized with ease. Keep in mind that there is always the risk of mildew and mold, so be ready to introduce a mix of one part bleach and four parts water. This works great for white-colored furniture, whereas for other colors you can replace the bleach with white vinegar.
Caring For Metal Outdoor Furniture
In order to get the shine back to your metal and wrought iron furniture, you can introduce some mild dishwashing solution you can use in your home cleaning chores and warm water. A lot of stains and other spoils on the furniture can be cleaned that way. Simply scrub with a brush and rinse clean with water. Properly dry with a clean cloth before you expose the furniture to direct sunlight. If you see rust on your furniture, you have to take care of it quickly before the issue escalates. Work with fine sandpaper and apply primer.
Caring For Wooden Outdoor Furniture
Simple soapy solution work great for wood furniture. Just spray and clean with a cloth. The same means you use in your patio cleaning apply for wood—you can effectively remove dust and dirt through jet washing. Teak furniture can be cleaned with bleach/laundry detergent mix in water.
Caring For Fabric Outdoor Furniture
Do not forget about your fabric covers and cushions. It is likely that they will get dirty over time, so make sure you clean them often. Regular machine washing works well enough for them.
Follow these tips for keeping your furniture clean at all times, and you will feel a lot more comfortable with it.
Want to see how to care for outdoor wood furniture? Watch this video from essortment:
Are you going to try this for your outdoor furniture? Let us know below in the comments!
Daniel Pike from Watford has been told to leave his house situated in the woods. Daniel Pike has built a remote shack made out of harvested clay from the riverbed, mud, as well as other materials that he found in Merry Hill forest. This modern day hermit sleeps on a mattress made from dried leaves, and has built window frames out of driftwood.
Unfortunately, The Woodland Trust representatives said that they own the site so he has to evacuate the land. However, Mr. Pike argues: “I am not doing any harm to anyone here. I grew tired with modern life”.”I came out to the woods, starting in a tent and decided to build a home. I won’t be leaving.” What made him decide to move there was the fact that he didn’t have money for a mortgage and his recent nervous breakdown did not helped his situation, on the contrary. Tired of the pressure of our modern times, he wanted a simple life, isolated from all the potential noise and stress, in his self-built home located in Carpenders Park.
Mr. Pike started building his unusual home four years ago, when he came across the location after becoming homeless. ”When I first saw the land it was bare but I knew straight away it was perfect,” he stated. “The main structure took seven attempts and six months to build”. ”We belong to the land, the land doesn’t belong to us. I don’t think I’m squatting.”
Building a nice bed for your dog is not always easy. You have to pay attention to some key steps, such as: materials you are going to use, the size of your dog and its personality. This next idea is very nice and easy, and it will help you stay on a budget. It is a very cute pallet bed for your dog that can be placed anywhere in your home, where you can find some free space. Pallets are usually easy to work with, but before starting the project make sure you remove all the nuts and bolts the pallet may contain, so your little friend won’t hurt itself. (Attention!!! They can be toxic. ). We recommend >>Furring strips<<. To learn more about this project, visit the link below and make sure you add a comfy pillow to the bed when it’s done. Your dog is going to love its new sleeping place, one that is both cozy and stylish.
